Photo of the Week

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The view from the Théâtre de l"Odéon at dusk. Photo: Françoise Deberdt-Meunier

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Paris Update What’s On

Links to events happening this week in Paris.

Left Bank gallery crawl
> Open house at 50 galleries for Art Saint Germain des Prés. Various venues, Paris, May 18-June 3.

Gold in galleries

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“Passage” ((2017), by Aude Herlédan. At 1831 Art Gallery during Carré Rive Gauche.

> The Carré Rive Gauche, an association of Left Bank galleries, celebrates its 40th anniversary with an event called ExtrORdinaire, featuring gold in works of art. Various venues, Paris, May 18-June 3.

Literary evening
> The Nuit de la Littérature in Belleville and Ménilmontant presents 20 foreign authors reading their work in French. Various venues, Paris, May 27.

 English-language theater festival
> Paris Fringe returns for its second year of English-language theater and comedy. Various venues, Paris, May 18-28.

Hollywood glam
> Marilyn Monroe, Greta Garbo, Ava Gardner, Marlene Dietrich and more in classic films from Hollywood's Golden Age for the Glamour cycle. Forum des Images, Paris, May 3-31.

French film with English subtitles
> Lost in Frenchlation shows Etienne Comar’s Django, preceded by a themed cocktail party (€4.50). Studio 28, Paris, May 26.

Virtual reality
> Drop in on Saturday or Sunday from 2pm to 8pm for a free virtual trip at the VR Express festival. Forum des Images, Paris, through June 30.

Dance in historic sites
> Monuments en Mouvement offers free dance performances in national monuments like the Pantheon in Paris, the Abbaye de Cluny and châteaux. Various locations, through Oct. 21.

African culture festival
> The 100% Afriques festival showcases dance, theater, music, fashion, design, art, food and more from all over the continent. La Villette, Paris, through May 28.

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Restaurants - Contemporary

 

Nomos

The Benefits of
Solo Dining

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The bright, modern dining room at Nomos.

I rarely eat alone in restaurants, but after my experience at Nomos the other day, I think I will do it more often. Without the pleasant distraction of conversation, it’s easier to concentrate on and savor the flavors and textures of the food, to my great joy in this case. And you don't have to share a dish you love with your friends...

I had lunch there on a quiet day during the French school holidays. With so few customers in the large dining room, it was even possible to chat a little with tattooed 20-something chef Guillaume Sanchez as he calmly worked in his big open kitchen while keeping a sharp eye on customers to be sure they were lacking nothing.

Lunch is a three-course surprise menu for €35, not so cheap, but well worth it.

The first course turned a humble onion into a noble dish. Slow-roasted, with some of its skin

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transformed into edible chips, it had a rich sauce with a touch of mint and was topped with a curious white powder that turned out to made of white truffles.

I have noticed that cooked onions have been appearing often on menus in Paris restaurants lately, and it’s a trend I fully approve of. This dish was something to revel in, especially when all the ingredients were tasted together, to subtle and unusual effect.

The same was true of the main course, milk-fed lamb cooked in a brioche that was somehow leafed with seaweed. Wow! The succulent

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little cubes of lamb in a rich gravy with a hint of Sicilian lemon for the perfect counterpoint were encased in the crispy brioche, which did not have a hint of sogginess.

I don’t know how he did it, but he later told me that the idea came from his grandmother, who was in the habit of throwing all kinds of ingredients into a brioche and cooking it up. It was served with a celeriac and Jerusalem artichoke purée and a perfectly cooked small potato.

The original dessert consisted of a light and

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refreshing cream and ice cream flavored with herbs and topped with razor-thin, intensely flavored dehydrated apple slices.

This was pretty much a perfect meal for me, complemented by a glass of fruity 2015 Chiroubles from Damien Coquelet, which did marvelous things with both the onion and the lamb. I have to go back to try the more complex evening tasting menu, with six courses for €65. I just hope the high prices won’t keep customers away.

Heidi Ellison

Nomos: 15, rue André del Sarte, 75018 Paris. Métro: Château Rouge. Tel.: 01 42 57 29 27. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Tasting menus: €35 (lunch, three courses), €45 (lunch, five courses), €65 (dinner, six courses). nomosrestaurant.com

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© 2017 Paris Update

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