Photo of the Week


The upside-down innards of the Conciergerie shown on a tarp on the facade and reflected in the Seine. © Paris Update


Paris Update This Week’s Events

For full details about an event, click on the title to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Monster contemporary art fair
> FIAC: 189 galleries show their wares in the Grand Palais and Petit Palais, Paris, Oct. 20-23.

Art on the Champs
> Art Élysées: 75 modern and contemporary art and design galleries in tents on the world's most famous boulevard. Champs Elysées, Paris, Oct. 20-24.

Asian art
> Asia Now: 30 contemporary galleries showing work by Asian artists. 9, av. Hoche, Paris, Oct. 20-23.

Art brut
> Another kind of art at the Outsider Art Fair. Hotel du Duc, Paris, Oct. 22–25.

Art in a townhouse
> Paris Internationale: contemporary art fair in a Parisian townhouse. 51, avenue d'Iéna, Paris, Oct. 19-23.

Young international artists
> YIA Art Fair: Youth takes precedence at this art fair. Carreau du Temple, Paris, Oct. 20-23.

Digital art
> Variation: Contemporary digital art fair. Cité Internationale des Arts, Paris, Oct. 18-23.

“Music for old people”
> Le Classique C'est pour les Vieux: The ironically titled music festival holds classical concerts in skateparks, cafés, artists' studios and other unusual venues and incorporates street art, 3D performances and more. Paris, Oct. 20-23.

Film festival for kiddies
> Mon 1er Festival: some 400 screenings, premiers and more for kids aged two and up. Various locations, Paris, Oct. 19-25.


For Brassens fans
> The annual 22V'laGeorges Festival celebrates what would have been the great singer’s 95th birthday this year in his hometown of Sète. Oct. 22-29.

Refugee children speak through art


> From Syria with Love, an exhibition of drawings by Syrian refugee children. Galerie CInq, 5 rue du Cloitre St Merri, 75004 Paris, through Oct. 21.

Classic Danish films
> Festival of movies by Carl Theodor Dreyer. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Nov. 6.

Jazz galore
> Paris's leading jazz clubs cooperate for the festival Jazz sur Seine, with special prices for concerts, showcases and master classes. Various locations, Paris, through Oct. 22.

Cultures of the world onstage
> Music, dance, theater and ritual performances from around the world at the Festival de l'Imaginaire. Various locations, Paris, through Dec. 20.

Strange Happenings in St. Germain
> The exhibition Bizarro, with works by a number of artists, fills seven Left Bank galleries with “Bêtes de Scènes et Sacrés Monstres.” Don’t miss the Meta-perceptual Helmets by the Irish duo Cleary/Connolly
at the Librairie Alain Brieux, which allow the viewer to see forward and backward, for example, or the way a cyclops or horse would see. Various locations, Paris, through Oct. 30.

Contemporary arts festival
> The Festival d’Automne presents leading talents in art, dance, film, theater and more from around the world. Various venues, Paris, through Dec. 31.

Amazing gardens
> The popular Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loireis held annually in the park of the Château de Chaumont in Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Nov. 2.

Music & more in park bandstands
> Kiosques en Fête brings life to the bandstands in Paris’s parks with concerts, writing workshops, club meetings and even a square dance. Various locations, Paris, through Dec. 31.


Restaurants - Contemporary


Une Poule sur un Mur

une poule sur un mur, paris, restaurant

The gambas were served on a bed of fried risotto.


Pros: Smiling service, quality food, quiet ambiance

Cons: Food a bit too spicy

Playing the game of Chicken can be extremely dangerous, but there is little risk involved in eating at Une Poule sur un Mur, a charming little restaurant that recently opened on the Rue Marie Stuart, a short, quiet street near the bustling Rue Montorgueil in the second arrondissement.

The unusual name comes from a French nursery rhyme (“Une poule sur un mur/Qui picote du pain dur/Picoti, picota/Lève la queue/Et puis s’en va”), which the owners just happened to hear a couple of times in a row while they were searching for a name for their new restaurant. Happily, they haven’t overdone the reference; you’ll have to pay attention to realize that the subject of a few, very different paintings decorating the room is chickens. A chubby white porcelain hen with a tiny head broods in a niche, and a couple of folksy red ceramic statues perch in the window and on the bar.

Otherwise the decor is simple, modern and understated, in dark tones brightened by exposed stone walls. The low lighting and blissful quiet of the dining room make eating here a relaxing pleasure, augmented by the attentions and smiles of the waiter and waitress.

The food, made with fresh, seasonal ingredients, was as appealing as the service. For a starter, I tried the white bean soup with a generous helping of baby squid and a few slices of chorizo floating in it – no complaints there. For my main course, I had the fillet of roast beef, a bit pricey at €25, but as tender, succulent and flavorful as you could wish, served with a rich gravy and a tasty fricassee of ratte potatoes and wild mushrooms. This is the right choice for those with a big hunger.

One of my companions had a dish of bass served with mussels, artichokes and a citrus emulsion. This was one of the more subtle dishes concocted by the chef, who sometimes has a rather heavy hand with spices and herbs – my only reservation about his cooking – as in the other main course: gambas with fried risotto. The flavoring of the risotto was almost overwhelming, and we played a guessing game trying to figure out what the source of the unusual taste was. The waitress reported back to us: chives, basil, sage and more. My friend loved it.

For dessert, we attacked the lemon tart – and “attacked” is the right word, since the crust, though tasty, was rather hard – served with a cinnamon-flavored mousse. The lemon filling was excellent, but I found the pairing of lemon and cinnamon to be a mistake and the combination overpowering, especially since the crust was made with a spicy speculoos cookie. The friend who ordered the same thing enjoyed it greatly, however, so I guess this is a matter of personal taste. Our other friend was more than happy with her fig tatin (which, again, I found to be overspiced) served with a quenelle of fromage blanc.

There is no disputing the quality of the food, ambiance and service here. I will definitely go back to the “Hen on a Wall,” especially since there are so few decent restaurants in this central area near Les Halles, in hopes that the chef will lighten up a little on the spices. The Poule’s outdoor terrace on a quiet street is another big advantage.

Heidi Ellison

Une Poule sur un Mur: 5, rue Marie Stuart, 75002. Tel.: 01 42 33 05 89. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. A la carte: around €37.

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