Photo of the Week

Paris-Update-EiffelTower

The Eiffel Tower seen from a rooftop in Montparnasse on a smoggy day. © Paris Update

 

Paris Update This Week’s Events

For full details about an event, click on the title to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Women’s March on Paris
> The day after Donald Trump’s inauguration, women will march in cities around the world. Starts at the Parvis des Droits Humains, Trocadero, at 2pm, crosses the Pont d’Iéna and ends at the Mur pour la Paix at 4:30pm.

Behind closed doors
> Book now to visit places in Paris that are normally closed during Paris Face Cachée, including a lab trying to find cures for genetic diseases, located in a glass building with a panoramic roof terrace. Various venues, Paris and suburbs, Jan. 27-29.

Book signing
> Irish author Donal Ryan signs copies of his latest book, The Thing About December. Irish Cultural Center, Paris, Jan. 19.

Late-Night Magritte
> The Magritte exhibition at the Centre Pompidou will stay open until 10pm from Jan. 19 through the last day, Jan. 23.

Drinkathon
> Paris Cocktail Week offers master classes, special restaurant menus with cocktail/food pairings and other festivities. Various venues, Paris, Jan. 21-28.

Young European photographers
> The Festival Circulation(s) features emerging photographers. Centquatre, Paris, Jan. 21-March 5.

Picasso at the airport
> The exhibition "Picasso Plein Soleil" presents works made by the master while living on the Côte d’Azur. Espace Musées, Charles-de-Gaulle Airport 2E, Jan. 21-June 15.

Cheap cinema
> During the Festival Cinéma Télérama, you can see a selection of last year’s best films for only €3.50 each with the purchase of Télérama magazine (Jan. 11 and 18 issues). Various cinemas, Jan. 18-24.

Free subtitled French films
> My French Film Festival offers frees streaming of French movies. Through Feb. 13.

Frank Capra Retrospective
> The great American director in the spotlight. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Feb. 27.

Sex, Lies and Corruption
> The Hollywood Décadent festival features such films as Joseph Mankiewicz’s Cleopatra with Elizabeth Taylor, Valley of the Dolls, and Vincente Minnelli’s Nina. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Jan. 25.

Chinese New Wave
> Nouvelles Voix du Cinéma Chinois screens films by a new generation of directors beginning around the turn of the 21st-century. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Feb. 20.

Winter sales
> Retail sales all over France: through Feb. 21.

Ice-Skating Rinks
> Where to ice skate in Paris, including the Eiffel Tower and the Grand Palais.

English plays in French
> Two plays by Harold Pinter, Ashes to Ashes and L’Amant, directed by Mitch Hooper, are onstage at the Essaïon through Jan. 24, 2017.

 

Restaurants - Contemporary

 

Une Poule sur un Mur

une poule sur un mur, paris, restaurant

The gambas were served on a bed of fried risotto.


 

Pros: Smiling service, quality food, quiet ambiance

Cons: Food a bit too spicy

Playing the game of Chicken can be extremely dangerous, but there is little risk involved in eating at Une Poule sur un Mur, a charming little restaurant that recently opened on the Rue Marie Stuart, a short, quiet street near the bustling Rue Montorgueil in the second arrondissement.

The unusual name comes from a French nursery rhyme (“Une poule sur un mur/Qui picote du pain dur/Picoti, picota/Lève la queue/Et puis s’en va”), which the owners just happened to hear a couple of times in a row while they were searching for a name for their new restaurant. Happily, they haven’t overdone the reference; you’ll have to pay attention to realize that the subject of a few, very different paintings decorating the room is chickens. A chubby white porcelain hen with a tiny head broods in a niche, and a couple of folksy red ceramic statues perch in the window and on the bar.

Otherwise the decor is simple, modern and understated, in dark tones brightened by exposed stone walls. The low lighting and blissful quiet of the dining room make eating here a relaxing pleasure, augmented by the attentions and smiles of the waiter and waitress.

The food, made with fresh, seasonal ingredients, was as appealing as the service. For a starter, I tried the white bean soup with a generous helping of baby squid and a few slices of chorizo floating in it – no complaints there. For my main course, I had the fillet of roast beef, a bit pricey at €25, but as tender, succulent and flavorful as you could wish, served with a rich gravy and a tasty fricassee of ratte potatoes and wild mushrooms. This is the right choice for those with a big hunger.

One of my companions had a dish of bass served with mussels, artichokes and a citrus emulsion. This was one of the more subtle dishes concocted by the chef, who sometimes has a rather heavy hand with spices and herbs – my only reservation about his cooking – as in the other main course: gambas with fried risotto. The flavoring of the risotto was almost overwhelming, and we played a guessing game trying to figure out what the source of the unusual taste was. The waitress reported back to us: chives, basil, sage and more. My friend loved it.

For dessert, we attacked the lemon tart – and “attacked” is the right word, since the crust, though tasty, was rather hard – served with a cinnamon-flavored mousse. The lemon filling was excellent, but I found the pairing of lemon and cinnamon to be a mistake and the combination overpowering, especially since the crust was made with a spicy speculoos cookie. The friend who ordered the same thing enjoyed it greatly, however, so I guess this is a matter of personal taste. Our other friend was more than happy with her fig tatin (which, again, I found to be overspiced) served with a quenelle of fromage blanc.

There is no disputing the quality of the food, ambiance and service here. I will definitely go back to the “Hen on a Wall,” especially since there are so few decent restaurants in this central area near Les Halles, in hopes that the chef will lighten up a little on the spices. The Poule’s outdoor terrace on a quiet street is another big advantage.

Heidi Ellison

Une Poule sur un Mur: 5, rue Marie Stuart, 75002. Tel.: 01 42 33 05 89. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. A la carte: around €37. www.unepoulesurunmur.fr

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