Photo of the Week

ParisUpdate-bicycles-courtyard

Bicycles in a Parisian courtyard. © Paris Update

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Paris Update What’s On

Links to events happening this week in Paris.

Stick up for science
> The Paris March for Science begins at 1pm at the Jardin des Plantes (Place Valhubert), April 22.

Silent films from Switzerland?
> They’re rare, but they do exist and can be seen at the Fondation Jérôme Seydoux-Pathé, Paris, April 20-May 2.

Voices from the North
> The Pølar Festival celebrates Northern European culture with films, concerts, talks and more. Various locations, Paris, April 19-29.

Photo walk
> Eight Paris galleries hold special photography shows and events for Parcours Fotofever. Various locations, Paris, through May 1.

Photo shows galore
> Le Mois de la Photo has been moved from autumn to spring, with 96 exhibitions taking place all over the greater Paris area. See Web site for locations and dates.

Art videos
> The theme of this year’s Videobox Festival is “noise and movement.” Carreau du Temple, Paris, April 27-29.

Take home a winemaker
> Winemakers from Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux come to Paris to offer tastings of their products in wine bars and private homes for the event J’Irai Déguster chez Vous. Various venues, Paris, April 20-22.

French film with English subtitles
> Lost in Frenchlation shows Nicolas Bedos’s Monsieur & Madame Adelman preceded by a themed cocktail party (€4.50). Studio 28, Paris, April 21.

Polaroid pix
> The “Expolaroid” exhibition features Polaroid images by nine artists. La Maison des Ensembles, Paris, through April 25.

Binge-watching
> Festival Séries Mania shows TV series from around the world and holds debates, conferences and special guests like Julianna Margulies of “The Good Wife,” all for free. Forum des Images, Paris, through April 23.

Travel yarns
> Travel fanatics get together at the Paris Travelers Festival to swap tales of their adventures. FIAP, Paris, April 22-23.

Street art indoors

ParisUpdate-UrbanArtFair-Felipe-Pantone-2
The gallery Art in the Game will be showing works by Felipe Pantone at the Urban Art Fair.> Some 30 galleries show street art at the Urban Art Fair. Carreau du Temple, Paris, April 20-23.

Virtual reality
> Drop in on Saturday or Sunday from 2pm to 8pm for a free virtual trip at the VR Express festival. Forum des Images, Paris, through June 30.

Dance in historic sites
> Monuments en Mouvement offers free dance performances in national monuments like the Pantheon in Paris, the Abbaye de Cluny and châteaux. Various locations, through Oct. 21.

African culture festival
> The 100% Afriques festival showcases dance, theater, music, fashion, design, art, food and more from all over the continent. La Villette, Paris, through May 28.

Before and after ecological disaster
> The Chic Planète festival presents two types of films, those celebrating the bounty of the earth and science-fiction views of what will happen after an ecopalypse. Forum des Images, Paris, through April 13.

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Restaurants - Contemporary

 

Une Poule sur un Mur

une poule sur un mur, paris, restaurant

The gambas were served on a bed of fried risotto.


 

Pros: Smiling service, quality food, quiet ambiance

Cons: Food a bit too spicy

Playing the game of Chicken can be extremely dangerous, but there is little risk involved in eating at Une Poule sur un Mur, a charming little restaurant that recently opened on the Rue Marie Stuart, a short, quiet street near the bustling Rue Montorgueil in the second arrondissement.

The unusual name comes from a French nursery rhyme (“Une poule sur un mur/Qui picote du pain dur/Picoti, picota/Lève la queue/Et puis s’en va”), which the owners just happened to hear a couple of times in a row while they were searching for a name for their new restaurant. Happily, they haven’t overdone the reference; you’ll have to pay attention to realize that the subject of a few, very different paintings decorating the room is chickens. A chubby white porcelain hen with a tiny head broods in a niche, and a couple of folksy red ceramic statues perch in the window and on the bar.

Otherwise the decor is simple, modern and understated, in dark tones brightened by exposed stone walls. The low lighting and blissful quiet of the dining room make eating here a relaxing pleasure, augmented by the attentions and smiles of the waiter and waitress.

The food, made with fresh, seasonal ingredients, was as appealing as the service. For a starter, I tried the white bean soup with a generous helping of baby squid and a few slices of chorizo floating in it – no complaints there. For my main course, I had the fillet of roast beef, a bit pricey at €25, but as tender, succulent and flavorful as you could wish, served with a rich gravy and a tasty fricassee of ratte potatoes and wild mushrooms. This is the right choice for those with a big hunger.

One of my companions had a dish of bass served with mussels, artichokes and a citrus emulsion. This was one of the more subtle dishes concocted by the chef, who sometimes has a rather heavy hand with spices and herbs – my only reservation about his cooking – as in the other main course: gambas with fried risotto. The flavoring of the risotto was almost overwhelming, and we played a guessing game trying to figure out what the source of the unusual taste was. The waitress reported back to us: chives, basil, sage and more. My friend loved it.

For dessert, we attacked the lemon tart – and “attacked” is the right word, since the crust, though tasty, was rather hard – served with a cinnamon-flavored mousse. The lemon filling was excellent, but I found the pairing of lemon and cinnamon to be a mistake and the combination overpowering, especially since the crust was made with a spicy speculoos cookie. The friend who ordered the same thing enjoyed it greatly, however, so I guess this is a matter of personal taste. Our other friend was more than happy with her fig tatin (which, again, I found to be overspiced) served with a quenelle of fromage blanc.

There is no disputing the quality of the food, ambiance and service here. I will definitely go back to the “Hen on a Wall,” especially since there are so few decent restaurants in this central area near Les Halles, in hopes that the chef will lighten up a little on the spices. The Poule’s outdoor terrace on a quiet street is another big advantage.

Heidi Ellison

Une Poule sur un Mur: 5, rue Marie Stuart, 75002. Tel.: 01 42 33 05 89. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. A la carte: around €37. www.unepoulesurunmur.fr

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