Photo of the Week


The Eiffel Tower seen from a rooftop in Montparnasse on a smoggy day. © Paris Update


Paris Update This Week’s Events

For full details about an event, click on the title to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Women’s March on Paris
> The day after Donald Trump’s inauguration, women will march in cities around the world. Starts at the Parvis des Droits Humains, Trocadero, at 2pm, crosses the Pont d’Iéna and ends at the Mur pour la Paix at 4:30pm.

Behind closed doors
> Book now to visit places in Paris that are normally closed during Paris Face Cachée, including a lab trying to find cures for genetic diseases, located in a glass building with a panoramic roof terrace. Various venues, Paris and suburbs, Jan. 27-29.

Book signing
> Irish author Donal Ryan signs copies of his latest book, The Thing About December. Irish Cultural Center, Paris, Jan. 19.

Late-Night Magritte
> The Magritte exhibition at the Centre Pompidou will stay open until 10pm from Jan. 19 through the last day, Jan. 23.

> Paris Cocktail Week offers master classes, special restaurant menus with cocktail/food pairings and other festivities. Various venues, Paris, Jan. 21-28.

Young European photographers
> The Festival Circulation(s) features emerging photographers. Centquatre, Paris, Jan. 21-March 5.

Picasso at the airport
> The exhibition "Picasso Plein Soleil" presents works made by the master while living on the Côte d’Azur. Espace Musées, Charles-de-Gaulle Airport 2E, Jan. 21-June 15.

Cheap cinema
> During the Festival Cinéma Télérama, you can see a selection of last year’s best films for only €3.50 each with the purchase of Télérama magazine (Jan. 11 and 18 issues). Various cinemas, Jan. 18-24.

Free subtitled French films
> My French Film Festival offers frees streaming of French movies. Through Feb. 13.

Frank Capra Retrospective
> The great American director in the spotlight. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Feb. 27.

Sex, Lies and Corruption
> The Hollywood Décadent festival features such films as Joseph Mankiewicz’s Cleopatra with Elizabeth Taylor, Valley of the Dolls, and Vincente Minnelli’s Nina. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Jan. 25.

Chinese New Wave
> Nouvelles Voix du Cinéma Chinois screens films by a new generation of directors beginning around the turn of the 21st-century. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Feb. 20.

Winter sales
> Retail sales all over France: through Feb. 21.

Ice-Skating Rinks
> Where to ice skate in Paris, including the Eiffel Tower and the Grand Palais.

English plays in French
> Two plays by Harold Pinter, Ashes to Ashes and L’Amant, directed by Mitch Hooper, are onstage at the Essaïon through Jan. 24, 2017.


Outings - Farther Alfield


Collection David et Ezra Nahmad. Impressionnisme et Audaces du XIXe Siècle

Tracing the Origins of
Modernity in Art

Paris Update Monet---Canotiers-a-Argenteuil---1974---Collection-David-er-Ezra-Nahmad

“Canotiers à Argenteuil” (1874) by Claude Monet. David and Ezra Nahmad Collection.

Anyone vacationing in the South of France this summer would do well to visit the pretty port town of Sète and, while there, to stop in at the Musée Paul Valéry to see its current show featuring rarely exhibited works from the collection of two wealthy art dealers and collectors, the brothers David and Ezra Nahmad.

The idea of this selection of some 70 works is to show how one artistic movement leads to another, illustrated by paintings from major European artistic movements, beginning around 1850, that marked the break with the Academy and the stirring of modernity, and continuing through the turn of the 20th century.

The show starts off with a bang with a roomful of works by Barbizon School painter Camille Corot (1796-1875) that show him “on the road to Impressionism,” as Maithé Vallès-Bled, museum director and exhibition curator, puts it, and by Gustave Courbet (1819-77).

Corot’s role as a forerunner of Impressionism can be most clearly seen in the dabbed-on brushstrokes and treatment of light in two lovely small paintings. “A Etretat, Femme et Enfant au Bord de la Mer” (1865) shows a well-wrapped woman who seems to be reading sitting on the beach next to a naked child playing in the sand against the backdrop of a yellow-tinted sea and sky. There is something very touching about this painting with its simple, abstracted forms. In the other one, “Femme Agenouillé Cueillant des Pissenlits (c. 1865), the woman kneeling in the grass picking dandelions forms a triangular shape, echoing the form of the two figures on the beach in the other painting.

The show also includes a number of light-filled paintings by another pre-Impressionist, Monet’s mentor Eugène Boudin (1824-98), including one of his marvelous depictions of stormy sea and sky, “Deauville, le Rivage par Gros Temps” (1890). Then we arrive at full-fledged Impressionism with works by Alfred Sisley (1839-99), Camille Pissarro (1830-1903) and Monet himself, represented by a number of beautiful works, among them a shimmering, richly colored view of the Ducal Palace in Venice dating from 1908.

There are no fewer than nine paintings by Auguste Renoir in the show, and, although I am usually put off by his often garish and saccharine paintings of women and girls, I appreciated the subtle and nearly color-free “Liseuse” (1877), a dark, moody depiction of a woman dressed in black sitting in an armchair reading. Practically the only color in this piece is the pink on the flesh of her face and hands.

The show then touches on the work of the Pont-Aven School (Emile Bernard and Paul Sérusier), the Nabis (with a number of dissimilar works by Pierre Bonnard and a few by Edouard Vuillard) and naïve painting (Douanier Rousseau, of course).

Among the Postimpressionist works are two appealing portraits of women by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, “Femme Rousse Assise

Paris Update Lautrec--La-Toilette--Mme-Fabre,-1891-Collection-David-er-Ezra-Nahmad

“La Toilette: Mme Fabre” (1891) by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Collection David and Ezra Nahmad.

dans le Jardin du Père Forest” (1899) and “La Toilette: Madame Fabre (Femme se Faisant le Mains)” (1891).

The exhibition ends with Symbolist works by Gustave Moreau and Odilon Redon. While I have never developed a taste for this movement, I was intrigued by Moreau’s version of “Suzanne et les Vieillards” (1895), in which Suzanne is lavishly draped with bejeweled garments that don’t do much to hide her nakedness, while the faces of the elders spying on her from the next room can barely be seen in the dark shadows.

The museum, in a handsome modern building (recently renovated) on the Mont Saint Clair hillside above Sète’s sailors’ cemetery, has a view of the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean and a shady outdoor restaurant-café, a great spot for a meal or a drink.

Named after an illustrious native son of Sète, Paul Valéry (1871-1945), it has a display devoted to the poet’s life and work as well as a collection of artworks dating from the 19th century to the present by such artists as Raoul Dufy, Toussaint Rousy and Albert Marquet. Local artists associated with the Groupe Montpellier-Sète and the Figuration Libre movement are also represented. One of the latter, Hervé Di Rosa, was the founder of a gallery in town, the Musée International des Arts Modestes, currently holding “Manila Vice” (through September 22), an exuberant exhibition of works by contemporary Filipino artists.

Heidi Ellison

Musée Paul Valéry: 148; rue François Desnoyer; 34200 Sète. Tel.: 04 99 04 76 16. Through October 27. Open daily 9:30am-7pm. Admission: €7.

Musée International des Arts Modestes: 23, quai Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, 34200 Sète. Tel.: 04 99 04 76 44. Open daily April 1-September 30, 9:30am-7pm; October 1-March 31, 10am-noon and 2pm-6pm. Closed January 1, May 1, November 1 and December 25. Admission: €5.

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