MICHELIN EXPANDS HORIZONS

The Michelin Red Guide, recently accused of losing touch with the changing world of French cuisine by influential Le Figaro critic François Simon, seems to have taken the criticism to heart and has given a coveted star to Yam’Tcha, a tiny restaurant that does not fit the usual Michelin bill of fare: it opened only a year ago, is run by a young woman chef, specializes in Chinese-influenced dishes and – blasphemy of blasphemies in France! (except that tea is currently très à la mode) – serves tea with food. Chef Adeline Grattard has worked in Hong Kong and at gourmet French restaurant Astrance. Otherwise, few radical changes were made to the guide. Most notably, L’Auberge du Vieux Puits in the southwestern village of Fontjoncouse was elevated to three-star status.