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Photo of the Week

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Just a dusting of snow on Montmartre's cobblestones on Tuesday. Photo: Eric Tenin of Paris Daily Photo.

 

Paris Update Flash News

TRENDY TAPAS

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The bar at Mojita et Bob on Rue Oberkampf.

The lower stretch of Rue Oberkampf might well get its mojo back from the Belleville end with the recent arrival of tapas bar/restaurant Mojita et Bob (3, rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris; tel.: 01 58 30 88 59), run by a charming young husband and wife team, and animated by the buzz of a happy young crowd. "Bob," by the way, is not the husband's name – it refers to "bring your own bottle," but they have plenty on hand, along with an extensive cocktail list, including, of course, mojitos. The tapas come from the creative end of the spectrum, with most dishes served in glasses or ramekins on rectangles of slate. Expect blood sausage with spiced banana and speculoos, grilled polenta with Emmenthal and Espelette peppers, pea mousse with chorizo, sardine rillettes, all very tasty. Not a patatas bravas in sight. It's a long way from the simple origins of authentic Spanish tapas, but these are done so well that you can forgive the occasional forays into culinary gymnastics. Colin Eaton

 

Paris Update Flash News

GOURMET GROUPON

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An illustration from GourmanDeal′s Web Site.

Two young (24 and 26) French businessmen, tired of working for big corporations, have had the excellent idea of launching GourmanDeal, an upscale, more exclusive Groupon-style site for restaurants only, great news for those of us who have had far-less-than-satisfactory experiences with Groupon restaurants (read all about it here). GourmanDeal (in French only for the moment) offers an opportunity to try more expensive eateries like the excellent Le Quinze de Lionel Fleury without breaking the bank. The site′s founders, Damien Nantermet and Bruno Bouzid, promise to keep their standards high and plan to expand to other French and European cities. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Festival Au Fil des Voix

World music artists from Tunisia, Morocco, Guinea, Italy, Greece and more. Alhambra, Paris, through Feb. 11.

Ice Skating Rinks

Hôtel de Ville, Paris, through March 4.

Leonardo Live

> Filmed tour of the Leonardo da Vinci exhibition at the National Gallery in London, various cinemas, Paris, Feb. 16.

London Calling

> Festival of British films, Forum des Images, Paris, through Feb. 29.

Paris Fine Art

> Art and antique fair, Palais des Congrès, Paris, Feb. 10-20.

Robert Altman Film Festival

> Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through March 11.

Soldes

> Retail sales in Paris: through Feb. 14

Fonds Solidarité Sida Afrique

> Benefit concert with Yael Naim and many others, open to donors to this fund to fight AIDS in Africa, Cirque d'Hiver, Paris, Feb. 13

Steven Spielberg Film Festival

> The entire œuvre, Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through March 3.

 

This Week

 

Ecole Normale Supérieure

Paris Modern

The handsome main staircase.

A new building in the heart of Paris is a true rarity in these days of fervent architectural preservationism, but one has nevertheless gone up in the Latin Quarter, designed for some of France’s most elite scholars.

As if ashamed of itself (or hiding from preservationists), the new library extension of the Ecole Normale Supérieure, alma mater of such luminaries as Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, is hidden away in and accessible only from the school’s private courtyard. The building is visible to the public from the back, on the Rue Rataud.

It has been nearly 10 years since architect Philippe Gazeau won the competition for the building’s design, but it has taken that long to wade through the bureaucratic maze that must be navigated to put up a new building in the city. Part of the delay was caused by actions taken by two neighborhood associations, whose objections were dismissed in the end since the area around the building site has no particular architectural heritage to protect. A walk through the student quarter immediately surrounding the ENS reveals plenty of 20th century buildings with little to recommend them.

Budget constraints imposed by a publicly financed project also quashed many of the architect’s ideas, such as hanging bookshelves. On a recent visit to the empty building, Gazeau seemed especially proud of the system of glass shutters controlled by sophisticated individual motors of the type used in nuclear plants. Each shutter is a sandwich of two sheets of tempered glass and two of EVA film, with a thin sheet of perforated stainless steel between them. With a flip of a switch, the shutters – which when fully open stand perpendicular to the glass façade – can be partially or entirely closed to control the amount of light entering the library’s main reading room.

These shutters also form the main point of interest on an otherwise undistinguished façade. Inside, a handsome concrete stairway, woven metal half walls and another stairway wrapped Christo-style in a textile composite liven up the otherwise grim interior.

Let’s hope the installation of the books and a human presence will add some color to the interior’s unremittingly grayness. The only touch of color was provided by a strip of purple carpeting and some orange electrical outlets.

The building, which replaces a temporary structure put up in the courtyard after World War II, is topped by what looks like an afterthought, a block of 59 dormitory rooms. These personality-free institutional rooms make you feel sorry for the students who will have to live in them until you remember that as some of the country’s top brains the “normale supes” have maid service and free room and board.

It seems a shame that when Paris does get a rare new building, it has to be hidden away and submit to so many design compromises. But then perhaps it would have been a good idea to hide another library, the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, which would still have been a disaster even if its architect, Dominique Perrault, hadn’t been forced to truncate the tops of its four “book-shaped” towers to placate critics.

Heidi Ellison

© 2006 Paris Update

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