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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

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Year in Review

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year in review, je l'aimais

Daniel Auteuil proved his acting skills once again in the film Je l'Aimais.

On the movie front, 2009 has been a good year. Martin Provost’s biopic Séraphine won many of the French Oscars (the Césars), including best film and ...

year in review, je l'aimais

Daniel Auteuil proved his acting skills once again in the film Je l'Aimais.

On the movie front, 2009 has been a good year. Martin Provost’s biopic Séraphine won many of the French Oscars (the Césars), including best film and best actress. Yolande Moreau in particular was richly deserving of her award for her portrayal of the gifted but mentally unstable painter known as Séraphine of Senlis.

A film that has already received many prizes and which must be a favorite for the 2010 Césars (and possibly the Oscars) is Jacques Audiard’s gritty drama about prison life, Un Prophète. Tahir Rahim’s debut performance as a young man who gains an education behind bars is remarkable, even though this much-lauded film itself seemed to me to have overly inflated pretentions about itself, a problem that I (but not many others) have found in other Audiard movies.

Rahim’s performance is just one of many strong male leads in French movies this year. I loved the subtlety of Vincent Lindon in Welcome (my favorite of the French films I saw this year) as a swimming coach training a young Kurdish refugee who wants to swim the English Channel to join his girlfriend in England; and Daniel Auteuil reminded us what a great actor he is in Je l’Aimais.

Other films I enjoyed this year were the uneven but amusingly self-mocking Bal des Actrices, and Pour Elle, which was that rare thing, a thriller that was genuinely thrilling.

The biggest turkey? Without a doubt, Journée de la Jupe: wildly improbable, with Isabelle Adjani on embarrassingly bad form.

The operatic year at the Opéra National de Paris was remarkable for the resurrection of previously neglected works. While Szymanowski’s luscious King Roger was performed in a ludicrously inappropriate production, Korngold’s Die Tote Stadt was shown to its best advantage in a richly intelligent staging.

Berg’s grimly dark opera Wozzeck returned to the Bastille opera house and somehow seemed less ridiculous with its setting in a sports complex than the first time I saw this production. The Opéra de Paris also put on a beautifully staged and solidly sung version of Puccini’s classic La Bohème toward the end of the year.

Of the books I reviewed this year, Sacha Sperling’s Mes Illusions Donnent sur la Cour showed great literary promise, while Lucy Wadham’s The Secret Life of France offered an enigmatic but illuminating account of life in modern France.

Nick Hammond

Reader (and contributor) David Platzer writes: "I found La Journée de la Jupe stark and despairing, like almost all contemporary cinema, no matter what the origin, but the friend who lent me the DVD and said I must watch it is a teacher in a collège in Montreuil. She told me the film reflects accurately the atmosphere in many schools these days! The school where she teaches is an exception, she said, but her daughter, in her first year of teaching, has been thrown into the deep end at a school in another part of Montreuil and is having a rough time. Perhaps aspiring teachers should have commando training.
"I rarely go to the cinema or watch films except at the behest of the others, as in the case cited above, but I did like
La Joueuse, a rare exception to the prevailing nihilism, with Sandrine Bonnaire as a hotel chambermaid who discovers a passion for chess and transform her life, and Kevin Kline, speaking with a heavily accented French, as the mysterious figure who becomes her mentor.
"I haven’t read enough of the year’s publications to say for certain which is the best – Marie Ndiaye’s Goncourt-winning
Trois Femmes Puissantes, which I haven’t read, must certainly be among the year’s best, as is Yannick Haenel’s Jan Karski, which I have and much admired, as I do everything Haenel writes. My favorite this year was Philippe Sollers’s Les Voyageurs du Temps, which I read twice in 2009 and will read again very soon. Add to that Cécile Guilbert’s brilliant collection of essays, Sans Entraves et sans Temps Mort, and Prélude à la Délivrance by Haenel again, this time jointly with his co-editor of the revue Ligne de Risque, François Meyronnis. These books are worth having in one’s sack as one traverses the tunnel of the current Dark Age. I can’t leave out Claude Lanzmann’s magisterial Le Lièvre de Patagonie and Pierre Assouline’s Les Invités either. And several new Pléiades that are musts: Lautréaumont, Elizabethan Dramatists, Confucianist Philosophers, the third volume of Le Livre du Graal, Céline’s Letters and the new Pléiade Rimbaud."

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