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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Hot Topics - Exhibitions

 

La Commune: 1871, Paris Capitale Insurgée

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commune

Édouard Manet's "Guerre Civile" (1871) © Musée Carnavalet - Roger Viollet

The Paris Commune, a euphoric workers’ uprising followed by a bloodbath, remains a mystery to most foreign visitors to the city. An exhibition at Paris’s Hôtel de Ville ...

commune

Édouard Manet's "Guerre Civile" (1871) © Musée Carnavalet - Roger Viollet

The Paris Commune, a euphoric workers’ uprising followed by a bloodbath, remains a mystery to most foreign visitors to the city. An exhibition at Paris’s Hôtel de Ville commemorating its 140th anniversary helps make the story clear.

The revolutionary government of the Paris Commune ruled Paris from March 28 to May 28, 1871, following the French defeat in the Franco-Prussian war. Paris refused to give up its guns following the surrender of Napoleon III to the Prussians, and the Parisian working class quickly took control of the city. For a short time, Paris was governed by Marxists and anarchists before the Commune was crushed by French regular forces led by Adolphe Thiers.

In the foreword to the exhibition, Paris’s mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, reminds us that the Commune helped promote “secularism, workers’ rights and the emancipation of women.” The show begins with exhibits that express the enthusiasm and the intellectual and political ferment during the Commune. Decrees were issued forbidding night work, for example, and giving free stationery to students. The Commune’s leaders, among them writer Jules Vallès and painter Gustave Courbet, were especially interested in bettering working conditions. Far from being excluded from the movement, women played a significant role in it, setting up a Women’s Union and campaigning for women’s rights. The anarchist and feminist Louise Michel, a schoolteacher who offered to shoot Thiers herself and is now an icon of the French left and a symbol of the labor movement, was the most famous of them.

One interesting piece is the diary of a Parisian hostile to the Commune. Her greatest fear is to be forced to house French National Guards, who constituted the core of the Commune’s military power. The entry on April 13 reads: “What a night! Impossible to sleep, I hear cannon fire.… Paris is ruled by bandits.” It is a shame that such exhibits are so scarce (there is only one other diary) as they show how ordinary Parisians lived though this unique experience and shed a new light on the Commune.

The show also focuses on the violence engendered by the crackdown on the Commune. During the infamous “Semaine Sanglante” (“Bloody Week”), from May 21 to 28, 1871, no fewer than 20,000 people were executed or killed in street fighting. The hatred engendered by the uprising led many “Communards,” as the Commune’s supporters were pejoratively dubbed, to be shot down in cold blood after they were taken prisoner.

Some of the most striking exhibits are those that show how Paris suffered from the uprising and its consequent suppression. Paris was so damaged that for more than 20 years, ruins were an ordinary sight for Parisians. Many buildings were burned down and, while some, like the Hôtel de Ville, were rebuilt, others were subsequently razed, among them the Tuileries Palace, the palace of the 19th-century French kings and emperors.

As in all wars, some opportunists managed to turn devastation into profit. A certain Mr. Hans published a “Guide à Travers les Ruines” (“Guide Through the Ruins”) for tourists. A 1871 engraving shows thrill-seeking foreign tourists visiting Paris's ruins.

Ultimately, this exhibition is a useful reminder of the events that took place during one of the most turbulent periods in French history. The exhibits are interesting, but few of them will be new to those who are familiar with the events of the time. For those who would like to learn more about the Commune, the city of Paris is holding a series of eight lectures about it with scholars and historians through June 17.

Louis Fraysse

Hôtel de Ville de Paris: 29, rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris. Métro: Hôtel de Ville. Tel. 01 42 76 51 53. Open Monday-Saturday, 10am-7pm. Admission: free. Through May 28. http://bit.ly/eEgxaC

Reader Thirza Vallois* writes: "I read the article on the Commune by Louis Fraysse with great interest. I found it excellent and hope it will incite many readers to visit the exhibition. I also wrote a story about the Commune and the exhibition for another publication. I, however, perceive the episode as more tragic than fascinating. I happened to visit the exhibition the day of the Royal Wedding and was struck by the respectful silence in the venue in contrast with the excitement, the silly mugs, the Barbie dolls and the overall 'buzz' fed by the media. By the end of the weekend, the young couple was forgotten, pushed aside by Bin Laden.
The impact of the Commune on the likes of Karl Marx and later Mao Zedong cannot be overestimated, for beyond the humiliating surrender to the Prussians that gave rise to the Commune, it was the first manifestation of a proletarian uprising and a role model for future revolutions. The episode happened at a time of horrendous poverty all over Europe in the wake of the Industrial Revolution and was aggravated in the case of Paris by the burden of new taxes following the annexation of its suburbs in 1860. It was because of the proletarian threat that Prussia put a quick end to the occupation of Paris, thus allowing Thiers government to take control of the city. After all, the French and Prussian authorities may have been at war with one another, but they belonged to the same privileged class (during the French Revolution, the neighboring monarchies allied against the newborn nation for the same reason).
"I came out of the exhibition with a feeling of immense sadness. All the suffering, the wasted lives, the trampled hopes, the crushing defeat... Not that the Communards were blameless. As a matter of fact, they were the ones who started it by executing innocent hostages, including the Archbishop of Paris. But they killed in the dozens, while the Versaillais government troops massacred them in the tens of thousands. All in one week: men, women and children. The official figure quoted is usually 20,000, although some sources suggest much higher figures. Nobody really knows. That's over and above the horrendous destruction, not just of the city's main monuments, which were set afire to the despairing Communards, but entire chunks of street reduced to rubble by the troops' bombing as they pushed their way east across the city coming from Versailles.
"The final fighting took place in Le Père Lachaise Cemetery, where the last Communards (also known as Fédérés) were dislodged tomb by tomb. Picked randomly, 147 of them, including women and youths, were lined up against the cemetery wall and shot by a firing squad. The wall, now known as Le Mur des Fédérés, has become the emblematic memorial of the Commune, the site of many left-wing commemorations. Six hundred thousand supporters of Léon Blum's Front Populaire gathered here after their victory on May 24, 1936, soon to see their hopes shattered like those of the Communards.
*Thirza Vallois is the author of
Around and About Paris, Romantic Paris and Aveyron - A Bridge to French Arcadia.

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