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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

What They Don't Teach You in French Class, Part II: To Bise or not to Bise

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How to Get (Really)
Familiar with the French

Paris-Update Puckered-Lips

Incoming! A cheek’s-eye view of France.

France. Grown men kissing other men. What’s up with that? This, or words to that effect, was what I said to myself as a child back in the Midwest when I first became aware of the French practice of cheek kissing. I had probably just seen President De Gaulle on TV presenting a Legion of Honor badge to some soldier, probably for valor in the struggle to make the world safe for Camembert.

As a child of a society in which nonbelligerent intragender physical contact of any kind was essentially nonexistent (and even intergender lip contact was discouraged), I found this to be consumingly weird. Guys kissing! In public! Don’t they know that it makes them look, ah, French?

After I moved here, I quickly learned that the cheek kiss, or bise, is indeed an ingrained part of social interaction in France. It more or less goes hand in hand, or rather jowl to jowl, with calling someone tu, the familiar form of address that is also nonexistent in the United States, and which I discussed in last week’s column.

If you’re going to live in France, you have to learn the rules for bise-ing. No one ever actually enumerated them for me, but, according to what I’ve figured out (so far), it works like this:

1. You shake hands with everybody upon first meeting.

2. Thereafter, you continue shaking hands upon future meetings with formal acquaintances, and with male friends if you are a man.

3. But you bise your friends, and possibly coworkers, of the opposite sex, and also of the same sex if you are a woman.

Still with me so far? You might want to take notes.

4. If you are a man, you bise other men only if they are really, really close friends.

After nearly 30 years in France I have only two male friends with whom I exchange bises, and both are American. That’s how confused we are about this practice.

5. Everybody, no matter who they are, can bise children.

6. Children, no matter who they are, hate it.

And who can blame them? Big gnarly grownups with bristly cheeks and wine breath getting in their sweet little faces all the time. Yuk. Or “Yeuque,” as they would say.

All of that’s complicated enough to merit a flowchart, but you also have to learn the proper procedure. To summarize the Bise Basic Drill Manual:

1. If you’re both wearing glasses, at least one of you has to take them off. The alternative is lens damage or whiplash.

2. Start with the right cheek – in other words, turn your head to the left as you lean forward.

If you go the wrong way, you’ll cause an embarrassing nasal collision, possibly accompanied by an inadvertent (and decidedly non-erotic) exchange of bodily fluids. It’s unpleasant for both parties, and any unwanted consequences are not covered by health insurance.

Novices take note! Very important point coming up:

3. You don’t actually kiss the other person. You just lightly brush cheeks and sort of launch an air-kiss earward.

3a. Unless you want your bise-ee to know that you, shall we say, wouldn’t necessarily be averse to a non-non-erotic exchange of bodily fluids. Actually, this can come in quite handy and, best of all, any unwanted consequences are covered by health insurance.

3b. If you are intimacy challenged, or obliged to bise someone with whom you’d rather exchange pistol shots at 20 paces (it happens), you can even feign the cheek contact part, leaving a cootie gap of a few millimeters between your respective epidermises.

4. Repeat on the other cheek. That is, if you can remember steps 1 through 3b well enough to run through them again.

Got all that? We’re not finished. Then there are a number of special considerations – the Bise Bylaws:

1. Friends in social situations bise for both “hello” and “goodbye,” whereas coworkers on the job only bise for “hello” in the morning (if that – it depends on company tradition) (and, in practice, how skeevy the heterosexual male employees are – see 3a above).

2. You give additional, immediate “thank-you” bises upon receiving a gift.

3. Women give additional, immediate “congratulations” bises to other women upon the announcement of life-changing good news (engagements, pregnancies, DNA matches, etc.).

4. Somewhere in the middle of France is an invisible border, approximately following the Loire River, south of which people do four rather than two bises, twice on each cheek, right-left-right-left. This is very time-consuming and probably has a lot to do with their lower production levels and higher flu rate.

5. Everybody bises everybody indiscriminately on New Year’s.

This includes guys bise-ing guys who are casual acquaintances. And it also includes skeevy, testosterone-addled lechers forcibly slobbering on every attractive woman, complete stranger or not, who crosses their path at midnight on December 31, pretending that it’s just a “Happy New Year” bise.

If you’re a woman, it’s a good idea to carry antibacterial mouthwash spray and a teargas pen if you’re out on New Year’s. And it’s an even better idea not to confuse the two.

But generally speaking, the people on your Spit List for bise-ing will be pretty much the same people on your tu roster, as explained last week – leaving out the animals and crime suspects but, what the hell, including the deities.

So, if the Virgin Mary appears before you more than once, you can kiss her starting from the second time. But keep in mind: I’m pretty sure she’s from south of the Loire.

This topic always reminds me of something I saw on French TV a couple of years ago. Flipping through the channels in an idle moment, I happened upon a documentary about a motorcycle gang in France. These were real outlaw types, with the choppers, the denim jackets with skulls on the back, the beards and tattoos, the willful violation of the helmet law, etc., etc.

The camera crew was following them on a “run” to some kind of Harley-intensive get-together. When they arrived, they encountered a bunch of bikers from another gang. The two groups slowly, coolly faced off in a row, staring at each other, adjusting their belts, spitting, cracking the knuckles, and... and... and...

And then started giving each other bises.

What makes France different from the United States? Let’s see, there’s the wine, the cheese, of course the language, the architecture... Oh, and bikers kissing other bikers. What’s up with that?

David Jaggard

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