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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

My Days Are Numbered, Thanks to the Firemen’s Calendar

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Need something to worry about in 2012? The Paris Fire Department to the rescue!

 

It’s that time of year. In Paris, autumn means a chill in the air, leaves on the sidewalk, wild game in the markets… and firemen in the street. Every fall, the Paris Fire Department prints ...

paris-firemens-calendar

Need something to worry about in 2012? The Paris Fire Department to the rescue!

 

It’s that time of year. In Paris, autumn means a chill in the air, leaves on the sidewalk, wild game in the markets… and firemen in the street. Every fall, the Paris Fire Department prints up a calendar for the coming year and sends the rookie members of each brigade out to sell copies in their neighborhood.

For readers, especially women, who live in an Anglophone country, the words “firemen’s calendar” conjure up images of beefcake buffets like this one from New York City or this one from Naples, Florida.  Nice, huh? Well, forget it. Despite France’s reputation for being a sexy, if not downright lascivious, kind of city, that’s not how they do things here. In the Paris calendar, instead of titillating shots of handsome, muscular young firemen stripping their shirts off in the heat, the photos depict the terrifying emergencies that those hunks have to handle. In other words, it’s an inventory – and if you hang it on the wall a constant daily reminder – of all the unexpected ways you could die in the coming year.

To flip through it is to peruse a catalogue of tragic and all-too-concrete examples of potentially fatal misfortune. Fortunately, however, the PDF’s defeatist (not to mention hunkophobic) attitude is matched by its stinginess: there are two months per page, which not only reduces production costs, but also keeps the depressing imagery to a minimum.

January-February starts out with a classic: a raging, out-of-control fire in what looks like a large and outstandingly flammable store or warehouse of some kind.
Note to self:
Stay out of public buildings.

To welcome the first warm days of spring, the March-April page shows a white-haired gentleman lying on the sidewalk holding his head as a fireman leans over him with a resuscitation kit.
Note to self:
Stop aging.

In the merry, merry months of May and June, we have a body, I hope still breathing, wrapped up like a mummy, strapped to a stretcher and being lowered on cables from a passageway high above a stadium.
Note to self:
Stay out of open-air spaces as well.

In July and August, while everyone else is relaxing on vacation, our tireless firemen are tending to a traffic accident that involves an overturned truck.
Note to self:
Stay off the roads.

In September and October, usually my favorite season in Paris, the boys in bluish-black are in the Métro, placing another victim of some sort of medical or interpersonal misadventure onto a stretcher. (Maybe it’s the same guy they were lowering out of the stadium – the cables slipped and he fell down a Métro entrance.)
Note to self:
Don’t take public transport either.

And, to end the year on a celebratory high note, we have another fire. But not just any fire – a fire in an apartment building that looks remarkably like mine!
Note to self:
Don’t stay home.

In addition to spreading joy and optimism, the Paris Fire Department calendar has another idiosyncrasy: there’s no set price. When you buy one you just give a “donation” of whatever you’d like to give. But they keep track. There’s a detachable form on the back of each copy that your sales-fireman fills in with your name and address – and the amount of your donation, in both digits and letters, like on a check, just to be sure that there’s no mistake. Then he peels off the form and files it in a notebook.

Obviously, they’re keeping records of who donates how much. But why? Since I’m already in a cynical mood from contemplating their calendar, I suspect the worst. Should the day ever come when I need their services, I imagine the conversation around the firehouse will go something like this:

OK boys, ante up. Nothing wild, jacks to open.

Wait – we got an emergency call on line three.

Uh-huh. Who’s it from?

Somebody named Jaggard over on Rue de l’Anesage.

What’s wrong?

A truck crashed into his building, setting it on fire, his wife fainted, and he’s having trouble breathing after being assaulted in the Métro.

He in the database?

I’m looking. Oh, and his cat’s up a tree.

What do we have on this guy?

He bought last year’s calendar. He wants us to strap the cat to a stretcher and lower her down on cables.

How much did he give?

Five euros.

Five? I’ve got more than that in the pot already.

That’s not all – looks like the only reason he bought it was to diss our photo choices on the Internet.

Let’s finish this hand. Raise you 10…

Note: Cynicism aside, the city’s firemen do a difficult, dangerous job admirably well and deserve our support. So buy a copy of their calendar. Give them a 50. And tell them I sent you.

David Jaggard

Reader Jacqueline writes: "Excellent column! The calendars are definitely not something you want to hang on your children's wall either. But allow me to point out that those disappointed not to find beefcake shots of fireman as found in NYC's version can ogle and even socialize with firemen in person at the several Fireman's Balls held in fire stations across Paris on July 13-14 and open to all!"

David Jaggard replies: "Right you are. In fact, I wrote about the firemen's balls earlier this year. My wife loves them. Fortunately (for me, not for her) they only come once a year..."

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