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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Paris Shop Signs: From the Ridiculous to the Sublimely Ridiculous

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action philatelie

There are approximately 220,000 businesses in Paris, so it’s not surprising that some of them have startlingly idiotic names. Ridiculous shop signs come in many varieties. One common category is the illogical juxtaposition, an example of which is shown above. Here’s another:

vikingsushi

From Leif Eriksson’s log, July 15, 1012:

Day 23. Vinland hove into view at last, and we all gave out a lusty huzzah. It has been a long voyage sorely plagued by rough seas and rower’s elbow, although the raw cod has been plentiful and delicious. Tragically, a storm three days out of Reykjavik left the nori soaking wet and the coffer of wasabi was washed overboard by a swell. The men have been in foul humor ever since, but they shall have a double ration of mirin tonight.

Here we have a representative of another category that I call the “nice try”:

grand-hotel-clignancourt-paris

Let’s see here. It’s a hotel, all right. And it’s on Rue Clignancourt. Check. But “grand”? I have to give it two out of three.

For the Anglophone resident of Paris, the richest source of ludicrous signage is, of course, misguided uses of English. These have become easier to find in recent years as French society becomes more cosmopolitan and English becomes trendier (blame Hollywood). This results in ill-advised choices like:

housewife

I suspect that the owners of this top-end homeware store in an upscale neighborhood thought they could appeal to their high-class clientele with a word lifted from the title of a popular U.S. sitcom that was imported to France. They might have done better calling the place “Desperate.”

skin-valley-paris

A cosmetics shop? A porn den? No, it’s a leather-goods outlet. At a guess I would say that the name is meant to evoke “Sun Valley,” which would be a nice positive image. But for the native English speaker it more readily evokes “Where-the-Sun-Don’t-Shine Valley,” which is, well, not so nice.

scarfood

Judging from the posters plastered all over the interior, the owner is obsessed with Al Pacino in general and the 1983 remake of Scarface in particular. But I rather doubt that even hardcore cinephiles make the connection at first glance between “food” and “face.” Or think it’s an appetizing combination when, at eighth or ninth glance, they finally do. I’ll have the Heidel-burger with a suture salad, please.

dirty-dick-paris

To a French person this name conjures up images of the Old West, six-shooters and sheriffs and outlaws and all that, making this an appropriate name for a Western-themed “saloon.” But what makes it an especially inappropriate name for this particular saloon is that this is a hostess bar in the red-light district around Pigalle. At night, scantily clad cowgirls sit in the window flashing their assets to potential customers, hoping to lure them in so they can do a dance on their laps and a colonic on their wallets, which is why I went to get this photo in the morning. Still, I didn’t want to linger too long wielding a camera on a street where inquisitive strangers are not likely to be greeted with open arms (let alone any other appendages), so I ended up with a pretty bad shot — that’s me flashing in the window. Come to think of it, there’s a kind of symmetry there.

As a sub-category of lamentable English we have those commercial names that sound fine in the original language but just happen to mean something else to English speakers:

dung-paris

I’m sure it’s a really nice word in Vietnamese. It probably means “phlegm.”

fokop-paris

Ahh, guys? Maybe it’s not just the recession that’s keeping the clients away. The fact that “Business Center” is in English would tend to indicate that they should have known better.

Now we come my favorite category: signs that incorporate the name of a historical figure (usually because it’s the name of the street), thus creating an anachronism. In the Marais we have:

labohenriiv

This is the medical laboratory where King Henri IV of France came to get a full checkup after his triumphant return to Paris in 1594. When his wife Marie de’ Medici gave birth to a son, the future Louis XIII, in 1601, Henri asked the lab for a DNA comparison. Shortly after delivering the results, confirming the king's paternity, the head pathologist moved to Saint Tropez, where he bought an opulent seafront villa and opened his own business called the Laboratoire d'Analyses Médicales Marie de’ Medici.

gymnase-paul-gauguin, paris

In 1889, the famous post-Impressionist started working out here three times a week in preparation for his upcoming trip to the Pacific after Vincent Van Gogh told him that Tahitian women can’t say non to a guy with buff abs. This turned out to be Van Gogh’s idea of a practical joke, and led to their falling out. When the Dutch artist came by the gym to reveal that it was all a put-on, Gauguin became so angry he punched his former friend in the chest, knocking him onto a NordicTrack machine. Van Gogh’s left ear got caught in the treadmill.

Avenue Mozart in western Paris is rife with this type of sign. There’s a Mozart drugstore, a Mozart rug store, a Mozart Chinese takeout joint, and a laundry:

pressing-mozart, paris
Presumably where the Austrian prodigy had his stage outfits dry cleaned when he was in town.

But the best of all is:

video-mozart, paris

This is the legendary studio where Wolf and the Gang produced all of their video clips when they were on tour in Paris, including “Toot My Magic Flute Baby,” “Cosi Fan Booti” and “The Shackup of Figaro.”

Note: Seen a ridiculous sign in Paris? Send a photo to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

David Jaggard

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