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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Winning by Losing It

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angry-man

Did someone insult his mother? Or is he just making a point?. Photo: Dreamstime

Suppose you’re a judge hearing a civil case. You have no information other than what the lawyers for the two sides tell you. First, the lawyer for the plaintiff ...

angry-man

Did someone insult his mother? Or is he just making a point?. Photo: Dreamstime


Suppose you’re a judge hearing a civil case. You have no information other than what the lawyers for the two sides tell you. First, the lawyer for the plaintiff makes his presentation, calmly and coolly explaining his position, delineating the facts point by point without raising his voice. Then the lawyer for the respondent gets up and goes ballistic. He seems barely able to control himself, talking loudly and rapidly with lots of frantic hand gestures, going on and on but without discussing the actual case, just expressing outrage that anyone could have the effrontery to accuse his client of wrongdoing.

Who are you going to believe?

If you are from an Anglophone culture, the answer is obvious: you’re going to believe the lawyer for the plaintiff. But, based on my observations as a long-time Paris resident, if you are French, you will very likely side with the partner from Howell, Bellow and Stahl.

This is a common characteristic of French (or perhaps generally Latin) behavior that bewilders me. The tactic seems to be: get on a high horse, keep up the bluster, avoid the facts and somehow everyone will think you’re right. Sticking, for the moment, with the legal world, here are a few examples:

• Quite some time ago, I saw a TV interview with a spotlight-hungry Parisian lawyer (who shall remain nameless in case he’s also libel-suit-hungry). He was defending an international terrorist who had already been convicted in absentia. The point he was trying to make was that the heartless mass murderer in question, although admittedly guilty, was being treated unfairly under the terms of his detention. But instead of acting like a level-headed legal expert who had learned that his client was being denied basic rights, his tone and demeanor resembled that of a four-year-old who had learned that he was being denied dessert. If there were a Nobel Prize in Histrionic Huffiness he would have been a contender.

• A few years later, a prominent French politician (who shall remain nameless because he’s still, amazingly, in office) took a similar approach in a televised statement in which he was supposedly answering charges of fraud and corruption. Again, all he did was throw a hissy fit and blather on and on, pursuing a line of argument that made up in symmetry what it lacked in logic, namely:

1) He shouldn’t be accused of these crimes, because…

2) He was above suspicion, because…

3) He was who he was, and therefore…

4) He was above suspicion, and therefore…

5) He shouldn’t be accused of these crimes.

I remember thinking that he could have saved a lot of time and effort by just getting a tattoo on his forehead saying “I’m lying.”

On the one occasion when I have personally appeared in a court of law, which happened to be in Paris, my own lawyer did the same thing. My coop was suing our former building administrator for shamelessly pocketing money that was supposed to go toward upkeep and repairs and so forth, and we had hired a lawyer to represent us. While we were sitting on the benches at the Palais de Justice waiting for our case to be called, she was perfectly calm, advising us on possible outcomes and what the next step in the process would be. But as soon as we were standing in front of the judge, she went into meltdown mode, becoming so agitated you could have churned butter in the pockets of her robe. I thought we were going to need a tranquilizer dart to get her out of there.

It must be a technique they teach in French law school for getting the judges’ attention and sympathy, kind of like soccer players angling for a penalty shot by writhing and grimacing as though they’ve been mortally wounded when an opposing player comes within three feet of them. (Which, by the way, also seems to be more of a Latin thing — check out this clip from Chile.)

This is a phenomenon that extends beyond the courtroom (and the football stadium), as I learned last year when I was inadvertently shortchanged at my local supermarket. I had just gone to an ATM and taken out two 50-euro notes, one of which I used to buy some groceries. But the cashier, who, shall we say, was not the sharpest carrot peeler in the discount bin, gave me change for a 20. I tried pointing out the error, but after a short conversation, it was clear that I wasn’t going to convince her. So I offered to come back when her shift ended, when presumably (if she didn’t make any more mistakes that day) she would have a €30 surplus. Sensible as it was, she seemed surprised by this proposal but agreed to it and told me that she got off work at 6pm. When I came back she had a tenner and a twentier in her hand ready to give me. So it all ended well, but get this: her explanation was, “I didn’t think you were serious about it, because you didn’t make a fuss.”

If that’s what constitutes sincerity in France, then I saw a gravely, grimly serious guy – the Cotton Mather of modern-day Parisian society – being very sincere at that same supermarket just a couple of weeks ago. I was waiting in a long checkout line when the security guard stopped a kind of scruffy-looking fellow with a backpack, apparently on suspicion of shoplifting. The guard quietly and politely asked the gentleman to open his backpack for inspection, but he refused to comply, instead launching into a frenzied, rabid tirade that he apparently thought would “prove” his innocence.

The thrust of his argument was rather weak, i.e., that he shouldn’t be suspected of being a thief because he didn’t, by his own reckoning, look like one (keep up the bluster, avoid the facts). It was quite an admirable performance, actually. The guy seemed to be able to yell continuously without inhaling. His monologue, delivered at metal-singer volume and auctioneer speed, sounded something like this:

“What? You think I stole something? You think I’m a thief? Look at me! Do I look like a thief? No I don’t! You know why? ’Cause I’m not a thief! What’s a thief look like? Not like me! I didn’t steal anything! You think I did? Why? Because I’m a thief? I’m not! Do I look like one? No! You think I do? If I was a thief what would I look like? A thief? What do they look like? Me? Thief? Look! Huh? No!” etc., etc., and on and on.

Whole minutes went by while I waited to check out, and when I left he still hadn’t let up. For all I know, he’s still there, pleading his case. (“How many times do I have to tell you I’m not a thief? A million? Okay, I will: I’m no thief! Not me! Do I look like one?... ”)

In fairness, maybe the guy didn’t look like a thief. But he sure as enfer sounded like one.

David Jaggard

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