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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

A Lesson in Larceny

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pickpockets in paris

In Paris, that hand in your pocket may not be your own.

Like everyone else who has been to or even heard of Paris, I am thoroughly aware that the city is teeming with pickpockets. Nonetheless, I always find it shocking ...

pickpockets in paris

In Paris, that hand in your pocket may not be your own.

Like everyone else who has been to or even heard of Paris, I am thoroughly aware that the city is teeming with pickpockets. Nonetheless, I always find it shocking to actually see one in action. One of the times I found myself thus shocked remains particularly memorable. I had gone to meet a friend of a friend, a woman from Los Angeles who was in Paris just for the day. I was supposed to show her around Montmartre. For the sake of the story, I’ll say her name was Linda (I’ll say just about anything for the sake of a story).

We met at Anvers Métro, where Linda promptly informed me that she had just been pickpocketed and had lost her wallet. In addition to her cash and credit cards, which was bad enough, it contained a receipt bearing the code for opening a self-service baggage-check locker at Gare de Lyon, which in turn contained her suitcases, which in turn contained jewelry that she traveled with for her business and that represented a non-negligible percentage of her net worth. We decided to head straight for the station to find out whether or not she would be going home with nothing but the clothes on her back and in a lower income tax bracket.

Not that I’m blaming the victim, but Linda was carrying a big, wide handbag slung over her shoulder that had no zipper, clasp or closure of any kind at the top. Pickpockets love that design. Combined with the wide-eyed “I have obviously never seen this before” facial expression that characterizes every first-time visitor to every city on earth, it emanates a signal, like a GPS instruction for miscreants: “Shove right hand into green shoulder bag in 5 meters.”

For reasons I don’t now remember, we arrived at Gare de Lyon in the RER suburban trains section, where you have to put your Métro ticket back through another turnstile to exit. I went first and turned around to see if Linda had gotten through all right. She hadn’t: she was stalled in front of what for her was an unfamiliar mechanism, looking for the ticket slot. The exit was crowded, but the next guy in line didn’t seem to be at all bothered by the delay. He was standing calmly right behind her with a patient, placid look on his face. And his arm buried up to the elbow in her handbag. As though she had anything left worth pilfering, I started yelling and pointing, “Linda! That guy has his hand in your bag! Right now! That guy right there!” etc., etc.

She hadn’t noticed a thing — or lost a thing, since one of his esteemed colleagues had beat him to the withdraw, so to speak — and as we rode up the escalator I filled her in on what had happened. Conveniently, I had a great visual aid for my explanation because the cutpurse himself was two steps behind us. “That’s the guy!” I kept saying, pointing at him from less than 3 feet away. “Him! Right here behind us!” Meanwhile, the Stealth Glommer, who hadn’t technically committed a crime, at least not in the past couple of minutes, elaborately ignored me.

We ended up finding Linda’s luggage undisturbed, but here’s the thing: having observed him in action, I came to admire old Furtive Fingers. He took his vocation very seriously. He was dressed and groomed in a way that could only be described as nondescript, presumably to make it harder for people to notice him before a piece of work or recognize him afterward. And throughout the entire time I was practically screaming about him within what was clearly earshot, he maintained an unruffled, expressionless air, casually staring off into space as though to say, “I’m nobody, going nowhere, doing nothing, just minding my ooooooooown business...”

He was so slick, so smooth, so impeccably professional, he must have practiced in front of a mirror. I imagine he made a decent living if he put in a good dishonest day’s work Monday through Friday. I starting wondering what his life was like, and decided that he probably commuted to his job every day from a nice house in an upscale suburb. And went home to the wife and kids every night just like anyone else:

“Honey, I’m home!”

“How was work today, dear?”

“Terrible! An empty wallet, a fake Rolex and a big, wide open handbag with nothing in it but keys and Kleenex. What’s for dinner?”

“Pita-bread sandwiches.”

“Oh good — my favorite.”

“I knew that’s what you’d pick.”

“Let me just change into something describable.”

“Speaking of clothes, your tailor called today. Your new suits are almost finished, but he wants you to come in tomorrow to choose the pockets.”

“Could you come with me? I’m terrible at that kind of thing.”

“Sure. Now hurry up and change. We have to eat early — the kids’ school musical is tonight.”

“What are they doing?”

“Oliver. Rob has the lead and Nick is in the chorus.”

“Oh no I hate that play. It gives felons a bad name.”

David Jaggard

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