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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

You Can’t Get That Here

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notaire, notary

The seeming similarity between “notaries” and “notaires” is only one of the traps awaiting the American resident of France. Above: the sign of a French notaire.

If you’re a citizen of one country and live in another, sooner or later you will face the predicament of wanting or needing something that just plain doesn’t ...

notaire, notary

The seeming similarity between “notaries” and “notaires” is only one of the traps awaiting the American resident of France. Above: the sign of a French notaire.

If you’re a citizen of one country and live in another, sooner or later you will face the predicament of wanting or needing something that just plain doesn’t exist.

For example, when I first moved here from the States and didn’t yet have a French bank account, I once found myself in the situation of carrying a largish amount of cash that I wasn’t going to need right away. Thinking like the Midwestern rube that I am, I decided to go to a bank and get a cashier’s check. (For the benefit of non-American readers: any U.S. bank will give anyone who walks in off the street a bank draft in exchange for cash, payable only to one party – like, for example, yourself. It’s almost as flexible as cash but of no use to anyone else – like, for example, a pickpocket.)

So I went into the first bank I could find, waited my turn and explained what I wanted to the woman behind the counter. In response, she gave me a look – a look that I would see many times in years to come. It’s an eloquent facial expression that says many things. It says, “I’ve never heard of such an idea!” Also, “We don’t do that here.” And it always has a little undercurrent of shocked perplexity that says, “Not only are you from another planet, but for an extraterrestrial you are pretty freakin’ stupid.”

Obviously, I didn’t get my cashier’s check. This was hardly even a minor inconvenience, but the next time I came up against this type of problem I really needed a solution: I had some financial papers from the U.S. that had to be notarized. In the States you can’t throw a high-capacity ammo clip without hitting a Notary Public, someone who is officially authorized to witness and authenticate the signing of documents. A lot of people become certified as notaries because it’s a way to earn some extra cash, because it’s a needed public service, and mainly because they get this nifty nickel-plated hand clamp seal thingy to emboss documents with. And, of course, there is no such function in France. Pas de tel animal. France does not have notaries but, in a nice bit of symmetry, it does have “notaires,” a professional function that, in turn, does not exist in the United States. French notaires also handle documents and signatures, but they are like a subset of lawyers, drafting deeds and wills and so forth.

In case you’re ever asked on a TV quiz show, there’s a notary service at the U.S. consulate on Rue Saint Florentin. But sometimes the national differences in the way things are done prove insurmountable. Some years ago, before there was flat-fee long-distance calling on Internet phones, I had occasion to call the tech help line of a big-name American software maker at their toll-free number in the States. And had the following conversation (the brand name has been changed to protect the imbecilic):

“Stucco Software, how can I help you?”

“Hello. Please let me mention right off that I’m calling from France, not toll-free, so I hope you can answer my question quickly.”

“Okay, Sir, but first I need your zip code.”

“Could we skip that? I just have a simple question and...”

“Sir, I have to follow procedures and I need your zip code.”

“Well, I can give you my postal code, but as I said I’m calling from France, so it’s not an American zip code.”

“Could I have your zip code please?”

“Ahh. Okay, it’s 75009.”

(Pause) “Sir, my information shows that that zip code is in Texas.”

“In the U.S., yes, but in France it’s my postcode here in Paris.”

“Paris, Texas?”

“No. Paris, France.”

“So you’re not in Texas, Sir?”

“No. As I said, I’m calling from France.”

“Did you ever live in Texas?”

I finally decided that €1.50 a minute was a lot to pay in the dim hope that someone who expected Uncle Sam’s P.O. to cover every location in the solar system would be able to solve my technical problem, and hung up.

Speaking of American provincialism and the Internet, I am sure many readers have encountered this quandary: You want to sign up for an online service of some kind based in the United States. You start filling out the form to register your “profile” – First Name, Last Name, Date of Birth, etc., etc. – and then you come to “Address.” You fill in your street address, give the postcode, enter Paris in the city box, skip “State,” put France as your country and hit “Submit.” And get an error message saying that you have failed to enter your state correctly.

You have to put something in the box, so you try “Ile de France” (the administrative département that Paris is in) and then “N.A.” and then “WTF” and then “WTFF” and then “Eatmerde,” and you keep getting the same error message over and over. As though to taunt us, some sites include a pop-up list of every single country in the world (Faroe Islands, Fiji... there it is!) next to a state pop-up list with the top 50 from Alabama to Wyoming, plus Guam, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, but no other choices (the states of “Exasperation,” “Bewilderment” and “Ill-Repressed Apoplectic Fury” are not included for some reason) and the system insists that you absolutely must pick one. I’ve noticed that more and more sites now include a “Non-U.S.” option, but for the ones that don’t there is usually no way out of this particular deep circle of cyberhell, and you have to give up.

I swear it’s enough to make you want to go postal. With a zip gun.

David Jaggard

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