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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Royalists in France

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Henri d’Orléans, Count of Paris

France’s monarchists are down for the count: Henri d’Orléans, Count of Paris. Photo from the cover of his 2003 book "L’Histoire en Héritage" (Tallendier).

Believe it or not, there are still French people who would like to see a return of the monarchy. In fact, there are enough of them to have formed not one, but two political parties, the Alliance Royale and ...

Henri d’Orléans, Count of Paris

France’s monarchists are down for the count: Henri d’Orléans, Count of Paris. Photo from the cover of his 2003 book "L’Histoire en Héritage" (Tallendier).

Believe it or not, there are still French people who would like to see a return of the monarchy. In fact, there are enough of them to have formed not one, but two political parties, the Alliance Royale and Action Française, both proposing to put a king back in power.

However, as is always the case with royal successions, there is some question as to who should get the old orb and scepter, in the unlikely event that either party ever actually wins a national election. The most likely pretender to the throne is Prince Henri Philippe Pierre Marie d’Orléans, Count of Paris and Duke of France. Now aged 77, he is the heir more or less apparent of Louis-Philippe, the last king to rule the country (from 1830 to 1848).

But he wasn’t always the top choice. His father, also named Prince Henri, Count of Paris (probably just a coincidence), stripped the current count of his titles in 1984 after he had the effrontery to marry his second wife, Micaëla Anna María Cousiño y Quiñones de León, Princess of Joinville, in a civil, i.e., non-Catholic, ceremony. Apparently this is a “one strike you’re out” kind of thing for dyed-in-the-ermine royalists. (It’s true that he was divorced, but my guess is that with names like theirs to wade through in the “I do’s” he just wanted to strip the ritual to the minimum so everyone could get out of there on the same day.)
So for several years he was the Aristocrat Formerly Known as Prince, but eventually the tensions eased and Henri regained his status as frontrunner for the crown. He even got his first marriage annulled by the Vatican just last year so he could re-marry Micaëla in front of a priest and keep everyone happy, somehow without affecting the legitimacy of the five children he had with Mrs. Henri the First. Now that, dear readers, is what I call power and privilege. Anyone who can call in a favor like that deserves to spend his wedding night yelling, “Who’s the state? Who’s the state?”

I find it mildly amusing that noblesse still obliges such machinations in the 21st century. But I find it even more amusing to imagine the conversation between Count Senior and Count Junior back in 1984 when their little tiff began. I like to think of the elder Henri saying, “Marry her if you must, son, but if you do, mark my words: you’ll never, ever, ever be king of France!”

David Jaggard

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