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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Keeping the Peace in Paris

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smokers

Late-night nicotine fiends are giving everyone fits in Paris.

Paris is now trying to resolve that age-old urban conflict between being a “city that never sleeps” and, of all things, sleep. It seems that the mayor’s office has been besieged with complaints about noise in the streets at night since the enactment two years ago of a ban on smoking in public buildings.

As it turned out, this measure has created a good news/bad news situation. The upside is that the olfactory experience of walking into a Parisian bar or nightclub is no longer like French-kissing an ashtray. The downside is that at any given moment about one-fourth of that bar’s patrons will be out on the sidewalk mixing up their own inhalable cocktails of air pollution and tobacco smoke. And talking. And laughing. And ticking off the neighbors.

Earlier this month Mayor Bertrand Delanoë hosted an event entitled the “Etats Généraux des Nuits Parisiennes,” the first “Convention on Parisian Nightlife,” at which he unveiled his plan for reducing the decibel level in the streets before it becomes a mitigating factor in a homicide. And what exactly does Monsieur Delanoë propose to do? Well, for one thing he’s going to send in the clowns. Literally: starting next spring the city of Paris will deploy a squad of “agents de silence” — mimes and clowns who will patrol the hotspots at night, silently (“and humorously!” says City Hall) reminding people to keep their voices down. Apparently, this solution has been successfully tested in Barcelona, although given the prevailing public opinion of street mimes I can’t help but picture more than a few clubgoers waking up the next morning with greasepaint on their knuckles.

In any case, all the uproar about this issue reminded me of a particularly noisy night in my own neighborhood last summer. One early Sunday morning my wife and I were roused from slumber at about 3:30 am by an argument outside. Nocturnal shouting is not entirely unusual on our street, because it’s a main thoroughfare between Montmartre and the nightclubs on the Right Bank boulevards. But this was one loud dispute—thanks to double glazing I’m rarely disturbed by street noise, and it even woke up my wife, who sleeps with earplugs. After the commotion had continued unabated for about 15 minutes, we figured there was no getting back to sleep any time soon, so we got up and looked out the window.

There were two cars parked right in front of our building with their doors open and five young guys standing next to them on the sidewalk, yelling and gesticulating furiously at one another. Since they were four floors down and there were always at least two of them bellowing at once, it was hard to make out what they were saying, but after a while we understood that the evening’s selected topic of debate was: “Who should drive the stolen car?”

Leading the “Resolved: You do it” team, we had Big, Beefy Guy with Deep Booming Voice, while in the opposing camp, admirably defending the “Why is it always me?” position, we had Tall Skinny Guy with High But Piercing Voice. Before I could summon the presence of mind to summon the police, they apparently arrived at a mutually acceptable conclusion and took off, all in one car. Presumably the one that one of them actually owns.

It was a good illustration of how people in the street can be oblivious of the fact that people in the surrounding buildings can hear them. There we had five car thieves essentially going out of their way to make sure that anyone within earshot would know they were car thieves. They must have awakened at least 80 people on our block, but nonetheless kept hollering away for nearly half an hour about their freshly committed felony.

I regret not having called the police sooner, of course, but even more than that I regret that no whitefaced “silence agent” came around to shush them. I would have given my car to see that.

David Jaggard

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