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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Film - Drama

 

Tournée

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tournée, Mathieu Amalric

Suzanne Ramsey (Kitten on the Keys) and Linda Maracini (Dirty Martini).

Mathieu Amalric won the Best Director award for Tournée (On Tour) at this year’s Cannes film festival, and it is easy to see why. In what was, by all accounts, a less than ...

tournée, Mathieu Amalric

Suzanne Ramsey (Kitten on the Keys) and Linda Maracini (Dirty Martini).

Mathieu Amalric won the Best Director award for Tournée (On Tour) at this year’s Cannes film festival, and it is easy to see why. In what was, by all accounts, a less than vintage year at the festival, the jury must have been impressed by the movie’s documentary-style edginess.

Amalric also co-wrote the script, which was originally inspired by a Colette story, L’Envers du Music-Hall (Music-Hall Sidelights), and plays the leading role of Joachim Zand, a formerly successful television producer who has brought a troupe of American New Burlesque performers to tour various venues on the periphery of France.

Just as much of the action is situated in the wings of theaters and in hotel rooms rather than onstage, we as spectators seem to remain on the sidelines when it comes to knowledge about the characters. Unlike the striptease artists, whose job it is to uncover themselves, the central character reveals very little about himself over the course of the film. We discover that he has somehow fallen from grace, but a brief visit he makes to Paris poses more questions than it answers as he argues first with a brother who seems to have a successful television career and then with a theater director. In the same trip to Paris, he picks up his two young sons from a former partner who is in hospital and takes them on tour for a few days. His utter fecklessness as a father and the refreshingly uncutesy depiction of the two kids (played by brothers Simon and Joseph Roth) make this part of the movie particularly moving.

There is a feeling of authenticity about the American striptease artists, because they are played by real New Burlesque performers with stage names like Mimi Le Meaux, Dirty Martini and Kitten on the Keys, who devised their own

tournée, Mathieu Amalric

Mathieu Amalric as Joachim Zand with Julie Ann Muz (Julie Atlas Muz) and Miranda Colclasure (Mimi Le Meaux).

acts (of varying quality) for the film. Every humdrum detail about life on tour is captured with realism, from the removal of false eyelashes to a sweaty sexual encounter in a hotel toilet.

Some scenes have the kind of randomness that one might assume is commonplace in a showbiz troupe’s life on the road. Joachim’s constant requests, always refused, at hotels to turn down the Muzak, for example, will strike a chord with anyone who has spent long periods in anonymous hotels. And the charged, flirtatious conversation between Joachim and the female cashier behind the glass barrier at a service station (wonderfully played by Aurélia Petit), adds very little to the narrative but is glorious in itself.

All in all, Amalric probably deserved the Best Director gong. There is a haunting and haunted quality about the movie that makes it memorable and affecting. Amalric manages to achieve a sense of poetry from the most unpromising situations. But in the movie's improbable final moments, the director seems more interested in the atmospheric setting of an abandoned hotel by the sea than in providing narrative resolution.

Nick Hammond

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