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May 10-June 2
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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Film - Drama

 

La Tête en Friche

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La Tête en Friche

Gisèle Casadesus and Gérard Depardieu make the story of an unlikely friendship totally convincing.

Jean Becker’s new movie, La Tête en Friche (based on Marie-Sabine Roger’s book of the same name), is in so many ways hopelessly outdated. It portrays village life as it was ...

La Tête en Friche

Gisèle Casadesus and Gérard Depardieu make the story of an unlikely friendship totally convincing.

Jean Becker’s new movie, La Tête en Friche (based on Marie-Sabine Roger’s book of the same name), is in so many ways hopelessly outdated. It portrays village life as it was represented on film in the 1930s and 1940s: gentle, undemanding and with the lesser roles of the villagers overacted with eye-rolling and thigh-slapping joviality.

Yet, thanks to the central roles of the village idiot Germain and 95-year-old Margueritte (yes, spelled with two ts), played by Gérard Depardieu and Gisèle Casadesus respectively, La Tête en Friche (My Afternoons with Margueritte) manages a charm and intensity that just manage to avoid most clichés of rural French life. The story revolves around their meeting in a park and the unlikely friendship that ensues, as the semi-literate Germain is read to by the erudite Margueritte before he learns to read to her when her eyesight begins to fail.

Reading books is never easy to dramatize effectively, but Becker displays a sure touch in depicting Germain’s imagination as he listens to the older woman: the rabble of rats he envisages as he listens to Albert Camus’s The Plague is particularly vivid. Flashbacks to Germain’s childhood inform us about the bullying he suffered both at school and at home. All the other actors in supporting roles (not least a ludicrously over-the-top Claire Maurier as Germain’s mother) might usefully have picked up a few tips from the understated dignity with which Florian Yven plays Germain as a child.

Depardieu proves yet again what a versatile and subtle actor he is, making Germain utterly believable, perhaps most poignantly so when he weeps over the dead body of a mother who showed him so little love when she was alive. Although it seems unlikely that Germain would have such a buxom young girlfriend as Annette (played by Sophie Guillemin, an actress who has been scandalously underused since her movie debut in Cedric Kahn’s L’Ennui in 1998), this is the fault of the director. As for Gisèle Casadesus (herself now 96), she brings an energy to the screen that belies her age.

Nick Hammond

Reader Andrew Fildes writes: "Pons is not exactly a village, and I have spent some time in smaller communities in Charente-Maritime over the last 50 years. The semi-rural lifestyle depicted here is not that of the 30's-40's, but very much of the present. I have seen these people in the bars and on the farms and lanes even recently. Perhaps the only jarring note is that I did not hear real Charentais voices – but that may have been too incomprehensible for the audience. It is quite impenetrable.
"Yes, it seems unlikely that the girlfriend would be a Guillemin type, but unlikely alliances do occur. As a teacher of long experience, the performance of Yven as the child did not seem to display 'understated dignity' to me. The word 'bovine' came to mind.
"I think that we forget that there are pockets that time forgets. Yes, the scene shown in this film is not modern, but it does still exist, and we see the intrusion of modern life frequently, such as in the family in the park or the horror of the Flemish nursing home. People still live and behave in this way. And if I want to see eye-rolling and thigh slapping joviality, I may go down now (and I think I will) to my local bar in a similar community here in Australia and see very similar people behave in a similar way. The chef is a mad Lithuanian, the waitress a university student, and there will be the usual crowd of accountants, artists and artisans carrying on in much the same way.
"These places exist - seek them out.
"The film has enormous charm and does seek to connect with something lost – simple goodwill perhaps."

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