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May 10-June 2
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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Film - Drama

 

Je l'Aimais

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Je l'Aimais

The lovers meet furtively in hotels in the Far East.

On almost every conceivable level, Je l’Aimais (I loved her/him) seemed designed to set my teeth on edge. Following the well-worn theme of so many French movies, this film appeared at first to center on an adulterous love ...

Je l'Aimais

The lovers meet furtively in hotels in the Far East.

On almost every conceivable level, Je l’Aimais (I loved her/him) seemed designed to set my teeth on edge. Following the well-worn theme of so many French movies, this film appeared at first to center on an adulterous love affair told from the male perspective, with secondary female characters who are all impossibly neurotic and a mistress who is impossibly glamorous, impossibly elusive, and, yes, impossibly neurotic.

Indeed, when the long-suffering Christiane Millet, who seems to specialize in playing long-suffering but blandly bourgeois wives, is wheeled out in this movie to play Daniel Auteuil’s (wait for it) long-suffering but blandly bourgeois wife, my critical pen was poised to rip this movie to shreds and consign it to the sadly increasing pile of disappointing French movies reviewed on these virtual pages in recent years.

Yet, somehow, Je l’Aimais manages to transcend all these obstacles. It is a sometimes amusing, often harrowing meditation on the messiness of human relationships.

Framed by the story of Pierre (Auteuil) taking his daughter-in-law Chloé (Florence Loiret-Caille) and her two young daughters to a country retreat just after she has been abandoned by her husband (Pierre’s son), the movie takes interesting and surprising turns. Instead of concentrating exclusively on Chloé’s attempt to come to terms with her plight, coupled with her understandably awkward relationship with her father-in-law, director Zabou Breitman concentrates largely on flashbacks as Pierre tells Chloé of his own unhappy marriage and his passion for Mathilde (Marie-Josée Croze), whom he met when on a business trip to Hong Kong.

Much of the action in the film, which is based on the novel of the same name by Anna Gavalda, takes place in the Far East as the two lovers meet furtively for frustratingly brief encounters in various hotels. Many of these scenes reminded me of the best sequences from Sophia Ford-Coppola’s Lost in Translation. And indeed, Mathilde is herself a translator who travels between different countries in the Far East. The alienation of these two Westerners is beautifully captured by the film’s director of photography, Michel Amathieu, as are the various cities they find themselves in.

Auteuil, who has a justifiably high reputation as an actor, despite some of the turkeys he has appeared in, is magnificent and ably supported by Croze and Loiret-Caille. Although he is emotionally restrained for much of the film, he plays his one moment of breakdown near the end with heart-wrenching honesty.

Some spectators may find the film’s ending rather too glib, but overall Breitman does not flinch from portraying both the reality and romance of illicit love affairs.
James Gascoigne

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