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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Film - Drama

 

Pars Vite et Reviens Tard

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A Plague of Symbols
One of the film's several chase scenes.

Pars Vite et Reviens Tard is a rarity: a film made in Paris that doesn’t make the city look like a picture postcard. Although it features many handsome views of the city, they are not shot in the usual locations (believe it or not, the Eiffel Tower is seen only once, from afar, at the very end of the film). And, even when the sun is shining, the city has a grim, menacing look, much like the main character, police inspector Jean-Baptiste Adamsberg (José Garcia), who never once cracks a smile in the entire film.

Adamsberg’s glumness may have to do with his backstory, but it isn't explained in the film, which is based on the mystery novel of the same name by the extremely popular French writer Fred Vargas. Presumably, the scenarists (no fewer than five are credited, including Julien Rappeneau and the film’s director, Régis Wargnier) figured that it would be impossible to find a French filmgoer who wasn’t already familiar with Adamsberg’s story, so didn’t bother to go into it (I should say here that I have never read a Vargas novel and came to the film with no a prioris). All we know is that that Adamsberg is sad because his girlfriend Camille (Linh Dan Pham) has left him, but we don’t know why she has flown the coop (because he’s too involved with his police work, by any chance?).

Back to the film. It centers on a colorful cast of misfits, among them a sort of modern town crier (well-played by Olivier Gourmet) who live in a funky boarding house near the Centre Pompidou and hang out in the square around the Stravinsky Fountain. Adamsberg gets involved with this motley crew after strange black symbols begin appearing on doors in apartment buildings and naked corpses start turning up in the apartments without the symbol. They appear to have died from bubonic plague, contracted from fleas slipped in under the door in an envelope. Paris goes into panic mode, with people queuing up at pharmacies and wearing surgical masks in the streets. More plague-blackened bodies begin to show up.

After lots of Da Vinci Code-style research into the plague and mumbo-jumbo about symbols in medieval manuscripts, Adamsberg, aided by the 75-year-old boarding-house owner Hervé Decambrais (Michel Serrault), finally starts to unravel possible motives and identify some suspects. Several chase scenes over rooftops and through tunnels are thrown in to add some American-style action for good measure, along with some group-rat action under bridges at night to jack up the creepiness factor.

Perhaps this type of overladen plot is best left to a novel. And perhaps American-style action is best left to American action films. Pars Vite et Reviens Tard is a competently made, sometimes visually interesting film with some intriguing characters (except Adamsberg, who just seems dull), but it is overlong, confusing and not original enough to be the “interesting” film it seeks to be.

Alfred Hitchcock said that the best film adaptations were based on mediocre books and proved it himself over and over again. Perhaps Pars Vite et Reviens Tard, the book, was too good to be made into a movie.

Heidi Ellison

A word from a Fred Vargas fan:
As a fervent fan of the original book, I appreciate that the demands of the medium inevitably mean simplification, but I was disappointed that the otherworldly, timeless atmosphere created by Fred Vargas had not translated to film. Although it was enjoyable, it wasn’t much more than a contemporary, even conventional detective film. The characters are recognizable (if somewhat better-looking than imagined), and the story line is respected (albeit with the introduction of action scenes that I don’t remember), but the essential spirit of the book just isn’t there.

Helen Stokes

© 2007 Paris Update

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