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Six Outsider Artists
May 10-June 2
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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Film - Drama

 

American Vertigo & Kings of the World

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Facile Rider

American Vertigo
The cops seem to be brutalizing this man in this scene from American Vertigo, but since the film offers no commentary, we don't know what is really happening.

One fine day, French pop philosopher Bernard-Henri Lévy (commonly known as BHL) set out to discover America, invited by The Atlantic Monthly to follow in the footsteps of 19th-century French political philosopher Alexis de Tocqueville. One of BHL’s personal goals on this road trip was to prove that the knee-jerk anti-Americanism of his countrymen was ridiculous. Instead of accomplishing his mission, however, at least in the filmed version of his travels, he basically confirmed most of his compatriots’ preconceptions about America by scratching the surface, visiting tourists traps, reporting on clichés, and interviewing freaks and cranks.

His book about the trip, American Vertigo (Grasset), came out in 2006, but BHL was also accompanied by a camera crew. The result is this impressionistic film with the same title by Michko Netchak (actor Jean-Pierre Kalfon reads excerpts from BHL’s book in voiceover). It offers a string of superficial, arbitrarily chosen images of the United States. Many of the images are attractive, and most of the vignettes are interesting, but what do they add up to? Not much. These widely varied, fleetingly treated subjects have been dealt with in much more depth and with much more impact in real documentaries and books that actually probe their subject matter – the war in Iraq, the American prison system, the American Indian movement, etc. – rather than glancing at it quickly and leaving town.

The thread that is supposed to hold it all together is his “investigation” of the prison system (de Tocqueville's assignment in 1831), which means we get to visit facilities at Riker’s Island and even Guantánamo Bay. He also visits two decommissioned penitentiaries, including Alcatraz, and rather spuriously uses them in his condemnation of the horrors of the American approach to incarceration. While he is harping on its inhumanity, however, one can’t help thinking about recent reports on the abysmal conditions in French prisons. He does have a point about the death penalty, but that’s another subject that has been better dealt with in depth elsewhere.

About the best thing I can say about this film is that at least the notoriously narcissistic BHL kept his own face out of the film – we see him only once in the distance.

Its most interesting bits are just teasers that leave you hungry for more. BHL goes to see American Indian activist Russell Means and suggests that a museum be built for the poor, downtrodden American Indians. Means takes umbrage (at BHL’s condescending attitude? – we don’t know because we are shown so little of the interview) and starts ranting in a distinctly anti-Semitic way. Cut! That clip is followed by a short interview with writer Jim Harrison, a fascinating character we’d like to hear more from, but he gets cut off as quickly as Means did, and we are back on the road.

Not that Lévy doesn’t have a few good points to make. He compares downtown Buffalo, New York, full of abandoned and burnt-out buildings, with his memories of wartime Sarajevo and castigates the United States for “urbicide,” or killing off its cities. He also decries the American way of reinventing history and giving it the Disney treatment. After a visit to the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum in Cooperstown, New York, for example, he quickly leaves town in disgust when he discovers the American sport par excellence was not invented there by Abner Doubleday as claimed. Another deception!

Judging by the film alone, BHL has failed miserably in his goal of proving his compatriots wrong about America. If you knew nothing about the country, you would leave the theater thinking that the United States was a strange, cruel place indeed. And you get the impression that BHL was relieved to put an ocean between himself and it. Thanks for the big picture, Bernard-Henri.

Another documentary road film that was released in France only a week earlier, on June 13, has just the opposite effect. In Kings of the World, three young French documentary makers, Valérie Mitteaux, Anna Pitoun and Rémi Rozié, set out to find out what Americans thought about their influence on the world after 9/11. They traveled around the West Coast and ventured inland to Arizona, Utah and Nevada. The difference here is that the filmmakers actually spent some time with their subjects, not just looking at them as if they were circus freaks and moving on, allowing the audience to get to know them.

The result is a much more thoughtful film that leaves you with a fairly positive impression of Americans, even though the filmmakers, unlike BHL, seem to have set out with a critical view of the United States. In the end, they were won over by the Americans they met, even the government-hating cowboy convinced that the imposition of Soviet-style communism would be the immediate result of the election of John Kerry.

If you want to spend your money on a documentary on the United States from a French point of view, spend it on Kings of the World.

Heidi Ellison

© 2007 Paris Update

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