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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou Darren Palmer

Another view of the Centre Pompidou. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

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Paris Update What's New in Paris

RESTAURANT/CLUB/CAFE
Wanderlust:
Finally, part of Les Docks, Cité de la Mode et Design will open to the public on June 6. Brunch on the terrace, take a yoga class, take in a concert or dance all night. 34, quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris.

SHOPS
Stella Cadente:
The designer of very feminine clothing and accessories has a new Paris store that's like a gold-lined tunnel. 102 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris.

Ecolo-Chic: Pop-up store in the Marais selling ethically resourced products, from toys and design to organic wine. 90, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris.

SMOKING
A new organization, L'Union pour les Droits des Fumeurs Adultes, has been formed to lobby for the rights of French smokers

JUSTIN ON THE ROOFTOPS
Keep your eyes peeled: Justin Bieber will be filming for the Web TV program live@home in an undisclosed location on the rooftops of Paris on the evening of May 31. Click here to win a pass to the taping.

 

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Paris Update Flash News

CAKE THE WAY WE LIKE IT

Paris Update Merce and the Muse

Goodies on display at Merce and the Muse.

Nowadays, American expatriates in Paris can easily satisfy almost all their nostalgic food cravings, from hamburgers to Reese’s peanut-butter cups or Oreo cookies. Until Merce and the Muse opened in the Upper Marais, however, it wasn’t easy to find good homemade, American-style cakes. The desserts at this homey, flea-market-furnished café are not just good, they are scrumptious and original, made from owner Merce Muse’s own recipes. The other day I shared a slice of chocolate layer cake with vanilla icing and another of pistachio cake with rose icing with a friend, but in truth I wanted to eat all of both of them. 1 bis, rue Dupuis, 75003 Paris. Tel.: 09 53 14 53 04. Open Tues.-Sun. for breakfast, lunch and coffee; brunch on Sunday. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Left Bank gallery walk. Collective opening, May 31, 6pm. May 31-June 3.

play Carré Rive Gauche

>Another Left Bank gallery walk, with 120 participating galleries. June 1-June 3.

play Champs-Elysées Film Festival

>A new Franco-American film festival, presided over by Lambert Wilson and Michael Madsen. Various locations, Paris, June 6-12.

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Designer's Days

>Design shops, galleries, schools and more participate in a city-wide design event. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 4.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Le Court en Dit Long

>Festival of short films. Centre Wallonie-Bruxelles, Paris, June 4-9.

play Nomades

>Cultural festival in the third arrondissement; art, poetry, concerts and more. Various locations, Paris, May 31-June 3.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon du Vin de La Revue du Vin de France

>Annual wine fair. Palais Brongniart, Paris, June 2-3

 

Film - Drama

 

Un Conte de Noël

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A Tale for All Seasons

conte de noel
Henri (Mathieu Almaric) and his mother Junon (Catherine Deneuve) attend midnight mass.

Arnaud Desplechin’s first international success came with his third feature, the nearly three-hour Comment Je me Disputé… Ma Vie Sexuelle (even the title was long). You expected a terrible bore – a group of middle-class philosophy students talk, smoke, talk, talk, smoke, have sex, drink and talk and smoke some more – but somehow it managed to be one of the most emotionally affecting movies of 1996.

That film may have been about a bunch of students, but its subject was really how friends can become a surrogate family, a theme he has continued to explore. Esther Kahn was also about a surrogate family, while 2004’s emotionally brutal Rois et Reine, was, it turned out, about his now ex-wife’s family (as she famously revealed in a book she wrote about how the director had stolen her life for the film). His latest film, Un Conte de Noël (A Christmas Tale), continues Desplechin’s familial quest.

Set in the northern French town of Roubaix (surely not by chance, it is also Desplechin’s hometown), Un Conte dives into the world of the deeply dysfunctional Vuillards. The aptly named Junon (Catherine Deneuve, wonderful once again), a matriarch who freely admits to being a bad mother who has never loved her children, discovers that she has lymphoma and only a bone-marrow transplant can save her (in one funny scene her son-in-law explains in great detail the statistical formulae needed to reveal that the transplant will add exactly 1.7 years to her life). The disease’s diagnosis means, of course, finding a compatible donor. Tests reveal two suitable candidates: her daughter’s mentally troubled 15-year-old son and her own mentally troubled son Henri (Mathieu Almaric). Cue much discussion and not a little recrimination.

As always with Desplechin, the bare bones of the plot actually reveal very little about the actual film. His great talent as a storyteller (ably aided by co-writer Emmanuel Bourdieu) lies in the way he manages to take the viewer deep inside the dynamics of his characters and their relationships to reveal the motives and hidden hurts that make up any human being and every family. What makes him a great director, however, is how he uses filmmaking techniques to do it; his films may be talky (and boy, are they), but they’re never simply filmed discussions.

With the help of France’s best cinematographer, Éric Gautier, Desplechin plays with forms and genres, timeframes and music (almost an extra character) to take us on a journey inside his characters. He’s not afraid to experiment. The film’s structure moves backward and forward in time, yet it never becomes confusing: Desplechin has total control.

He also has characters directly address the camera, which is often a horrid postmodern “we all know we’re in a film and you’re the viewer” gimmick, but he dares to play it straight, so instead of being annoyed you feel privileged to hear their thoughts and share their feelings. You feel as if you’re their friend.

It’s like much of Desplechin: it shouldn’t work, yet it does, thanks to a striking emotional honesty and an adult acceptance that people are never either good or bad, they just are. This means that he is unwilling to fall back onto easy dramatic devices: like real people, his characters don’t change – they are who they are – and while they may have moments of grace they don’t – as so often happens in, shall we say, less intelligent cinema – suddenly become somebody else. The drama is in the (often cruel) details.

With a cast featuring many of France’s best actors (Emmanuelle Devos, Hippolyte Girardot, Chiara Mastroianni), Un Conte de Noël is beautifully played, funny, honest, heartfelt and smart. The best compliment you can pay is that after two-and-a-half hours in the company of the Vuillards, you walk out and want to head straight back and see them again.

Tom Ridway

© 2008 Paris Update

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