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Photo of the Week

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Just a dusting of snow on Montmartre's cobblestones on Tuesday. Photo: Eric Tenin of Paris Daily Photo.

 

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TRENDY TAPAS

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The bar at Mojita et Bob on Rue Oberkampf.

The lower stretch of Rue Oberkampf might well get its mojo back from the Belleville end with the recent arrival of tapas bar/restaurant Mojita et Bob (3, rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris; tel.: 01 58 30 88 59), run by a charming young husband and wife team, and animated by the buzz of a happy young crowd. "Bob," by the way, is not the husband's name – it refers to "bring your own bottle," but they have plenty on hand, along with an extensive cocktail list, including, of course, mojitos. The tapas come from the creative end of the spectrum, with most dishes served in glasses or ramekins on rectangles of slate. Expect blood sausage with spiced banana and speculoos, grilled polenta with Emmenthal and Espelette peppers, pea mousse with chorizo, sardine rillettes, all very tasty. Not a patatas bravas in sight. It's a long way from the simple origins of authentic Spanish tapas, but these are done so well that you can forgive the occasional forays into culinary gymnastics. Colin Eaton

 

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GOURMET GROUPON

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An illustration from GourmanDeal′s Web Site.

Two young (24 and 26) French businessmen, tired of working for big corporations, have had the excellent idea of launching GourmanDeal, an upscale, more exclusive Groupon-style site for restaurants only, great news for those of us who have had far-less-than-satisfactory experiences with Groupon restaurants (read all about it here). GourmanDeal (in French only for the moment) offers an opportunity to try more expensive eateries like the excellent Le Quinze de Lionel Fleury without breaking the bank. The site′s founders, Damien Nantermet and Bruno Bouzid, promise to keep their standards high and plan to expand to other French and European cities. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Festival Au Fil des Voix

World music artists from Tunisia, Morocco, Guinea, Italy, Greece and more. Alhambra, Paris, through Feb. 11.

Ice Skating Rinks

Hôtel de Ville, Paris, through March 4.

Leonardo Live

> Filmed tour of the Leonardo da Vinci exhibition at the National Gallery in London, various cinemas, Paris, Feb. 16.

London Calling

> Festival of British films, Forum des Images, Paris, through Feb. 29.

Paris Fine Art

> Art and antique fair, Palais des Congrès, Paris, Feb. 10-20.

Robert Altman Film Festival

> Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through March 11.

Soldes

> Retail sales in Paris: through Feb. 14

Fonds Solidarité Sida Afrique

> Benefit concert with Yael Naim and many others, open to donors to this fund to fight AIDS in Africa, Cirque d'Hiver, Paris, Feb. 13

Steven Spielberg Film Festival

> The entire œuvre, Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through March 3.

 

Film

 

My Winnipeg

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Guy Maddin's Winnipeg is the kind of place where you might encounter horse heads sticking out of the frozen river during a winter walk.

Film director Guy Maddin has been called “le David Lynch Canadien” by the French media. Like Lynch, Maddin mines the bizarre/bland dichotomy of a small town in his films. In Maddin’s case, it’s most often his hometown, the Canadian prairie city of Winnipeg.

His cinematic love/hate poem about the city, My Winnipeg (Winnipeg Mon Amour in French), a genre-defying docu-fantasy first released in 2007, opens today in France and was featured at the Centre Pompidou as part of a retrospective of his work, “Guy Maddin: Le Magicien de Winnipeg” (through November 7).

Maddin deliriously blends personal memories with invented, exaggerated and always surreal Winnipeg lore as he explores his relationship with his hometown. The outcome is sensory overload: part sleepwalking through the dreamscape of a city trapped in eternal winter, part psychosexual introspection and part emotionally charged existential rant, all humorously delivered.

Maddin shot My Winnipeg in his typical faux-documentary style, using 8mm film and video, which he blew up to look grainy and faded, as if it might be recently uncovered footage. He intersperses this with the occasional bit of real historical film, creating a style that gives quasi-credibility to his fantasia.

Still, audiences won’t know what to make of Maddin’s Winnipeg: They learn about “If Day,” a simulated Nazi invasion of the city during World War II; that Winnipeg has two cab companies – one whose turf is the city’s streets and the other its back lanes; and that one might encounter frozen horse heads sticking out of the Red River during a winter walk.

It’s magical realism done by a prairie fabulist, although some of the most implausible things mentioned in the film turn out to be true. Garbage Hill, for example, really does exist. Winnipeg’s lone ski slope, it is basically a mound of snow-covered garbage; when children slide down it, they risk being impaled on an old refrigerator or a moose antler. And the aforementioned If Day really happened: on February 19, 1942, five thousand government-hired actors simulated a Nazi takeover of Winnipeg in attempt to boost support for the Allied cause overseas.

When he is asked at film screenings what is real and what isn’t, as he is invariably is, Maddin’s reply is: “It’s all emotionally true.”

The movie is also an exploration of the psychological lockdown that keeps Maddin in Winnipeg. In the opening lines of the movie he chants with increasing desperation: “I must leave.” (This, too, is true to life. Maddin has often left Winnipeg, vowing never to return. He recently moved to Toronto, Canada’s largest city, to be near his daughter and her family, but was back within six months – something to do with there being no front stairs on his house.)

Wherever he is, though, Maddin inhabits his own cosmos.

In his other works, such as Tales From the Gimli Hospital, Cowards Bend the Knee, The Saddest Music in the World and Brand Upon the Brain! (all being screened at the Centre Pompidou), he also scavenges film history – in addition to his own feverish imagination, one can see the influence of neorealism, the expressionist films of the 1930s, French director Jean Vigo (Zero de Conduite was a favorite film of the young Maddin) as well as his Icelandic heritage and the huldufólk (invisible people who hide in the attic) that people its folklore.

In The Saddest Music in the World, Isabella Rossellini, his other muse (after Winnipeg), stars as Lady Port Huntly, a brewery heiress in a blond wig and tiara who has glass legs filled with her own beer. Maddin sets the film, shot mostly in grainy black and white, in Winnipeg in 1933, the fourth year in a row that a British newspaper has named the city “the world capital of sorrow.” Lady Port-Huntly devises a contest with a prize of $25,000 “in Depression-era dollars” to the performer of the saddest music. The result is a film like few others: gothic fantasy upended with slanted comedy.

Rossellini, daughter of the great Italian neorealist director Roberto Rossellini, is one of Maddin’s most fervent fans and has collaborated with him on other projects, notably 2006’s Brand Upon The Brain! (Des Trous dans la Tête! in French), another imaginary foray into a gothic Maddin childhood in the form of a silent science-fiction comedy set in a lighthouse on bleak Big Notch Island, where the protagonist, named Guy Maddin, is being raised by an iron-fisted, puritanical mother.

The movie was originally mounted as a theatrical event, accompanied by live orchestra, foley artists and narrators, including Rossellini, a role she reprised on October 20 at the Théâtre de l’Odéon in Paris.

Maddin has also been the subject of several documentaries, one by his friend and fellow Winnipeg director, Noam Gonick, which is also part of the retrospective.

When he presented My Winnipeg at the Berlin Film Festival in 2008, Maddin said “My dream is to show this film at the Berlin Film Festival and have hundreds of Germans watching it as a travelogue of Winnipeg.” Will Parisians see it the same way?

Karen Burshtein

Centre Pompidou: 19, rue Beaubourg, 75004 Paris. Tel.: 01 44 78 12 33. Métro: Rambuteau. Through November 7. Click here for program.

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