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Photo of the Week

Paris Update Centre Pompidou esplanade darren Palmer

In front of the Centre Pompidou: one crash-proof, the other already crashed. Photo © Darren Palmer of Paris by Photo.

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

play Chartre en Lumières

> The town of Chartres illuminates its monuments and the cathedral with colorful light installations. Through Sept. 15.

play Festival de l'Imaginaire

> Performances by troupes from around the world, Maison des Cultures du Monde, Paris, through June 17.

play Festival de Saint Denis

> Music festival featuring both stars like Sir Colin Davis and young talents; ends with a dawn performance by horse whisperer Bartabas and oud player Mehdi Haddab, Cathedral and Legion of Honor, Saint Denis, through June 30.

play Festival Extensions

> Concerts, dance, films and more, various locations, Paris and Val de Marne, through May 31.

play Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire

>"Gardens of delights, gardens of delirium" is the theme of this year's garden festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Oct. 21.

play Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés

>Jazz acts ranging from amateur to big names like Ahmad Jamal and Yusef Lateef (together). Various locations, Paris, Through June 3.

play Festival l’Afrique dans tous les Sens 2012

>A celebration of African music, film, art, fashion, dance, cuisine and more, various locations, Paris, through May 27.

play Quinzaine des Réalisateurs

>The features and short subjects entered in this category at the Cannes Film Festival shown in Paris, Forum des Images, Paris, May 31-June 10

play Salon d'Art Contemporain de Montrouge

>57th annual festival of contemporary art featuring 80 up-and-coming artists, La Villette, Montrouge, through May 30.

 

Art - Temporary Exhibitions

 

Grenier des Grands Augustins

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Picasso Meets Balzac

The 17th-century courtyard of the illustrious building at 7, rue des Grands Augustins..
The 17th-century courtyard of the illustrious building at 7, rue des Grands Augustins..

Even jaded longtime residents of Paris often stumble across hidden gems they didn’t even know existed. The other day I discovered a charming example laden with historic, artistic and literary connections. On the Rue des Grands Augustins in the sixth arrondissement, across from the trendy (and excellent) restaurant Ze Kitchen Galerie, the building at no. 7 bears a plaque noting that Pablo Picasso painted his renowned antiwar masterpiece “Guernica” while living and working there from 1936 to 1955. The good news is that Picasso’s former atelier, located on the top floor, can be visited during occasional exhibitions or by appointment.

Picasso is not the only historical celebrity associated with the atelier. In 1831, Honoré de Balzac published a short story called “Le Chef-d’œuvre Inconnu,” part of which is set in 1612 in this very building, where an artist named François Porbus (based on a historical figure, Frans Pourbus, a Flemish painter at the French court) has his atelier. The story tells what happens when a starving young artist called Nicolas Poussin visits his idol and meets another painter, the rich, mysterious Frenhofer, who will let no one see the masterpiece he has been trying to perfect for 10 years.

In 1927, Picasso was asked by his agent, Ambroise Vollard, to illustrate Balzac’s story, which is really more a treatise on art than a work of fiction. This illustrated version was published in 1931, one hundred years after the original. Several years later, Dora Maar took Picasso to see the atelier where some of the story’s action takes place and where he ended up living and working for the following nine years.

The building’s historical credentials don’t start or stop there, however. In 1610, the nine-year-old Louis XIII is said to have been crowned king of France in the building an hour after the assassination of his father, Henri IV. And, before Picasso took up residence in the studio, it was inhabited by the actor Jean-Louis Barrault, star of one of the most beloved and best-known French films of all time, Marcel Carné’s Les Enfants du Paradis (Children of Paradise). Barrault founded his first theater company and held rehearsals there.

The credit for the atelier’s accessibility and the free temporary art exhibitions like “Picasso-Balzac,” held there in 2007, goes to the Comité National pour l’Education Artistique, an association that promotes art education for children and holds art, literature and music classes for schoolchildren in the atelier on weekday mornings.

In 2002, the CNEA’s director, Alain Casabona, renovated the Grenier des Grands-Augustins, which had been unused since the departure of Picasso in 1955. He has even written a novel, Le Grenier aux Merveilles (Editions du Rocher), with Patrick Renaudot, that recounts the history of the building in fictionalized form. Balzac’s story is also reprinted in the book.

Since the CNEA doesn’t receive any government subsidies, it relies on its own fundraising activities, one of which is renting out the atelier (equipped with a grand piano and a stage) for concerts and other events. A better space for an intimate recital or party would be hard to find.

Heidi Ellison

Grenier des Grands-Augustins: 7, des Grands-Augustins, 75006 Paris. Métro: Tel.: 01 43 54 09 00. E-mail: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. . Visits by appointment. www.cnea.fr

© 2007 Paris Update

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