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Photo of the Week

Paris-Update-Snow-in-Paris-2012

Just a dusting of snow on Montmartre's cobblestones on Tuesday. Photo: Eric Tenin of Paris Daily Photo.

 

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TRENDY TAPAS

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The bar at Mojita et Bob on Rue Oberkampf.

The lower stretch of Rue Oberkampf might well get its mojo back from the Belleville end with the recent arrival of tapas bar/restaurant Mojita et Bob (3, rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris; tel.: 01 58 30 88 59), run by a charming young husband and wife team, and animated by the buzz of a happy young crowd. "Bob," by the way, is not the husband's name – it refers to "bring your own bottle," but they have plenty on hand, along with an extensive cocktail list, including, of course, mojitos. The tapas come from the creative end of the spectrum, with most dishes served in glasses or ramekins on rectangles of slate. Expect blood sausage with spiced banana and speculoos, grilled polenta with Emmenthal and Espelette peppers, pea mousse with chorizo, sardine rillettes, all very tasty. Not a patatas bravas in sight. It's a long way from the simple origins of authentic Spanish tapas, but these are done so well that you can forgive the occasional forays into culinary gymnastics. Colin Eaton

 

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GOURMET GROUPON

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An illustration from GourmanDeal′s Web Site.

Two young (24 and 26) French businessmen, tired of working for big corporations, have had the excellent idea of launching GourmanDeal, an upscale, more exclusive Groupon-style site for restaurants only, great news for those of us who have had far-less-than-satisfactory experiences with Groupon restaurants (read all about it here). GourmanDeal (in French only for the moment) offers an opportunity to try more expensive eateries like the excellent Le Quinze de Lionel Fleury without breaking the bank. The site′s founders, Damien Nantermet and Bruno Bouzid, promise to keep their standards high and plan to expand to other French and European cities. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Festival Au Fil des Voix

World music artists from Tunisia, Morocco, Guinea, Italy, Greece and more. Alhambra, Paris, through Feb. 11.

Ice Skating Rinks

Hôtel de Ville, Paris, through March 4.

Leonardo Live

> Filmed tour of the Leonardo da Vinci exhibition at the National Gallery in London, various cinemas, Paris, Feb. 16.

London Calling

> Festival of British films, Forum des Images, Paris, through Feb. 29.

Paris Fine Art

> Art and antique fair, Palais des Congrès, Paris, Feb. 10-20.

Robert Altman Film Festival

> Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through March 11.

Soldes

> Retail sales in Paris: through Feb. 14

Fonds Solidarité Sida Afrique

> Benefit concert with Yael Naim and many others, open to donors to this fund to fight AIDS in Africa, Cirque d'Hiver, Paris, Feb. 13

Steven Spielberg Film Festival

> The entire œuvre, Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through March 3.

 

Art

 

Turner et ses Peintres

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Turner's “Snow Storm - Steam-Boat off a Harbour’s Mouth” © Tate Photography


I have had a somewhat worshipful attitude toward the work of J.M.W. Turner (1775-1851) ever since I saw the Grand Palais’s 2004 “Turner-Whistler-Monet” exhibition, which documented the influence of Turner’s revolutionary Impressionistic-long-before-Impressionism paintings on Monet. Many of my friends feel the same way about Turner, judging by the excitement in their voices when they mention the opening of “Turner and the Masters” (“Turner et les Peintres”), also at the Grand Palais.

How fascinating, then, to see this show and discover that Turner was a true artistic chameleon, changing colors and styles as soon as he smelled a whiff of sterling in the air. When Canaletto’s views of Venetian canals became fashionable, J.M.W. jumped on the gondola. The critics took a fancy to Rembrandt-style genre paintings? Turner made an appointment with a society dentist and was painting the interior of his office and his clients in high chiaroscuro in no time. One of his rivals was getting a lot of attention for a seascape he was painting for the Royal Academy show? Turner stole the limelight by finishing his own painting at the exhibition itself and, probably taking a cue from the competing work, added a red buoy to the foreground of his painting, the perfect finishing touch. The critics praised his work (beautiful in its simplicity) and laughed at the painting of his competitor hanging next to it.

All that may sound unsavory, but let’s not forget that artistic rivalry has a long and noble history, as we learned at the recent show at the Louvre documenting the paintbrush sparring of Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and other artists in Renaissance Venice. And artists do have to make a living, after all. Turner just happened to be perhaps a bit more competitive and ambitious than most.

And, as this show makes very clear, Turner was a serious artist and craftsman who often bettered those he imitated. We see over and over again how he studied, copied and interpreted the works of the masters he most admired, among them Rembrandt, Nicolas Poussin and Claude Lorrain. Poussin’s “Le Déluge” (“The Flood,” 1660-64) hangs next to Turner’s version, painted after he saw the original in 1802 at the Louvre. Turner retains the basic set-up, but eschews the perfection and prissiness of Poussin’s painting. In Turner’s “Flood” we feel the violence of the wind and water, and the desperate struggle of the drowning people, even while glimpsing a hint of hazy red sunset beyond the storm.

Many of his pastiches were less successful, however, especially those filled with figures – Turner was more at home with landscapes.

At the end of the exhibition, we get some examples of what seem to be the true Turner originals, the ones I love, paintings in which forms dissolve into pure light and movement, as in the brilliant “Snow Storm - Steam-Boat off a Harbour’s Mouth” (pictured above). Turner explains in his lengthy subtitle that he was in the midst of the storm, watching the boat moving through it, and the viewer, too, is drawn into the wet, wild vortex of the squall.

Heidi Ellison

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais: 3, avenue du Général Eisenhower, 75008 Paris. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Tel.: 01 44 13 17 17. Open Friday-Monday, 9am-10pm; Tuesday, 9am-2pm; Wednesday, 10am-10pm; Thursday, 10 am-8 pm. Admission: €11. Through May 24, 2010. www.rmn.fr

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