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"Métamorphoses, Cheminées, The Attic Pictures"

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Photo of the Week

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Just a dusting of snow on Montmartre's cobblestones on Tuesday. Photo: Eric Tenin of Paris Daily Photo.

 

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TRENDY TAPAS

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The bar at Mojita et Bob on Rue Oberkampf.

The lower stretch of Rue Oberkampf might well get its mojo back from the Belleville end with the recent arrival of tapas bar/restaurant Mojita et Bob (3, rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris; tel.: 01 58 30 88 59), run by a charming young husband and wife team, and animated by the buzz of a happy young crowd. "Bob," by the way, is not the husband's name – it refers to "bring your own bottle," but they have plenty on hand, along with an extensive cocktail list, including, of course, mojitos. The tapas come from the creative end of the spectrum, with most dishes served in glasses or ramekins on rectangles of slate. Expect blood sausage with spiced banana and speculoos, grilled polenta with Emmenthal and Espelette peppers, pea mousse with chorizo, sardine rillettes, all very tasty. Not a patatas bravas in sight. It's a long way from the simple origins of authentic Spanish tapas, but these are done so well that you can forgive the occasional forays into culinary gymnastics. Colin Eaton

 

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GOURMET GROUPON

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An illustration from GourmanDeal′s Web Site.

Two young (24 and 26) French businessmen, tired of working for big corporations, have had the excellent idea of launching GourmanDeal, an upscale, more exclusive Groupon-style site for restaurants only, great news for those of us who have had far-less-than-satisfactory experiences with Groupon restaurants (read all about it here). GourmanDeal (in French only for the moment) offers an opportunity to try more expensive eateries like the excellent Le Quinze de Lionel Fleury without breaking the bank. The site′s founders, Damien Nantermet and Bruno Bouzid, promise to keep their standards high and plan to expand to other French and European cities. Heidi Ellison

 

Paris Update This Week's Events

For full details about an event, click on its name to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Festival Au Fil des Voix

World music artists from Tunisia, Morocco, Guinea, Italy, Greece and more. Alhambra, Paris, through Feb. 11.

Ice Skating Rinks

Hôtel de Ville, Paris, through March 4.

Leonardo Live

> Filmed tour of the Leonardo da Vinci exhibition at the National Gallery in London, various cinemas, Paris, Feb. 16.

London Calling

> Festival of British films, Forum des Images, Paris, through Feb. 29.

Paris Fine Art

> Art and antique fair, Palais des Congrès, Paris, Feb. 10-20.

Robert Altman Film Festival

> Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through March 11.

Soldes

> Retail sales in Paris: through Feb. 14

Fonds Solidarité Sida Afrique

> Benefit concert with Yael Naim and many others, open to donors to this fund to fight AIDS in Africa, Cirque d'Hiver, Paris, Feb. 13

Steven Spielberg Film Festival

> The entire œuvre, Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through March 3.

 

Art

 

Monumenta

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Christian Boltanski's Monumenta exhibition at the Grand Palais evokes the Holocaust and concentration camps. Photo: Didier Plowy/Monumenta/Ministère de la Culture et de la Communication


It is always exciting to see how another artist will cope with what must be the very intimidating task of filling the cavernous spaces of the Grand Palais – with its glass dome high enough to accommodate a full-sized Ferris wheel – for the one-man (no woman artist has yet been invited) show entitled “Monumenta.”

For Anselm Kiefer, the first to attempt it in 2007, it was no problem: he was already building gigantic installations on a hilltop site in the South of France. A year later, Richard Serra rose to the challenge brilliantly, erecting five huge rusty steel plates that were almost but not quite identical, placed in a row at slightly different angles. While it didn’t look like much at first sight, the installation created mysterious, menacing presences that exerted a strange fascination and became almost interactive in spite of their massive solidity as you moved among them.

This year, it is the turn of Christian Boltanski, considered by many to be France’s leading artist. Boltanski, whose works are always haunted by death, the Holocaust and the idea of absent people, has created a simple installation he calls “Personnes,” although it includes no images of human beings, only ghostly representations of their absence in the form of used clothing and disembodied heartbeats.

On entering the Grand Palais, visitors first come up against a wall of rusty stacked tin boxes – a recurring motif in Boltanski’s work that conjures up images of a columbarium in a cemetery or of old records (of Holocaust victims?) neatly filed away.

Visitors must make their way around this obstacle to see the rest of the installation, which consists of three long rows of neatly laid-out squares of used clothing spread on the ground, each square demarcated by two poles between which a fluorescent light bulb is suspended on a string. On the poles are speakers, each one emitting the recorded heartbeat of a different person, from Boltanski’s “Archives of the Heart” project, which records and saves the heartbeats of individuals (the archive will open to the public in July 2010 on the Japanese Island of Teshima; visitors can have their own heartbeat recorded for posterity upstairs in the Grand Palais). The whole building throbs with sound from the heartbeats and from the amplified noise made by the building itself. As visitors stroll among the rows the sound varies, since each individual’s heartbeat is amazingly different.

In the back of the building, under the dome where a Ferris wheel stood a few weeks ago, is a mountain of used clothing (see video at bottom of left-hand column), which immediately brings to mind the mountains of human hair or shoes collected by the Nazis from their victims. A claw suspended from a crane repeatedly picks up a bunch of clothing, rises toward the ceiling and then drops the clothing it has picked up back onto the pile. According to Boltanski, the claw is based on the claws in amusement park games in which players try to pick up a prize; it is meant to represent the arbitrariness of life and death.

Boltanski has also created an installation called “Après” at MAC/VAL, the contemporary art museum in the Paris suburb of Vitry-sur-Seine. Unlike the show at the Grand Palais, which is bathed in natural light from the glass ceiling in the daytime, this installation is set up in an enclosed space in near-total darkness filled with black room-sized cubes that cannot be entered but whose heavy black plastic walls move mysteriously. The only light comes from headless stick figures with white fluorescent tubes for arms. When visitors approach them, a movement-activated recorded voice asks such questions as “Were you frightened?”, “Did it happen in the hospital?” This is the afterlife as conceived by Boltanski, who says he is a non-believer. The back wall is covered with shiny, semi-reflective blank rectangles of different sizes.

All this sounds interesting on paper (or computer screen), but while Boltanski’s concerns and intentions are certainly laudable and his humanism undeniable, his work is strangely unaffecting. Shouldn’t the figures from beyond the grave send a chill up the spine when they suddenly speak to you? They don’t. Shouldn’t the mountain of limp, wrinkled clothes – symbols of the departed – create a shock of horror? It doesn’t. Maybe a lifetime of seeing shocking images has made these representations of them seem too mild.

Boltanski is very articulate in explaining the meaning of his works. It reminds me of when I was studying photography long ago. We were asked to take a photograph illustrating a theme and then explain the image in an accompanying text. The teacher read my text aloud to the class and praised it, but then looked at my photo and said, “Too bad the photo doesn’t say that.”

It’s the work that counts and, unfortunately, although I want to appreciate Boltanski’s work, it doesn’t speak for itself. As I heard a well-known French artist say at the MAC/VAL opening about Boltanski’s installation, “Ça ne me chavire pas” (“It doesn’t knock me out”).

Heidi Ellison

Grand Palais: Avenue Winston Churchill, 75008 Paris. Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau. Open Monday and Wednesday, 10am-7pm; Thursday-Sunday, 10am-10pm. Closed Tuesday. Admission: €4. www.monumenta.com (see Web site for info on related cultural programming).

MAC/VAL: Place de la Libération, 94404 Vitry-sur-Seine. Métro: Porte de Choisy, then bus 183 (get off at the MAC/VAL stop, marked by a monumental Jean Dubuffet sculpture). Tel.: 01 43 91 64 20. Open Tuesday-Sunday, noon-7 p.m., Thursday until 9 p.m. Admission: €5. www.macval.fr

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